Tuesday, December 17, 2013

"It's a vacation!" - Weekend in Germany with Weiners, Glühwein, and Weihnachtsmarkt

Our long journey to Bavaria began very late Friday night, with an overnight train from Avignon. As I nor any of the girls had rode in overnight train, we did not know quite what to expect. The train itself had places where you could just sit in a reclining seat all night or you could opt for a bunk. We decided that we wanted to be able to sleep and chose the bunks. What we were greeted with were small compartments with three bunks stacked on each side. We had lots of fun climbing and playing in our own private compartment, and although the excitement and adrenaline of going to Germany kept me up a while, I did get some sleep on this overnight train.

Clearly, we were excited for Germany.
Awaking at 9am when our train arrived in Strasbourg, we enjoyed the beautiful decorations and architecture in Gare de Strasbourg while eating some pain au chocolats from Paul.

The train station was quite pretty, with interesting ceilings and sculptures.

My fav!
After a short train ride across the border, we arrived in Stuttgart. Once we found a map of the city and asked for some orientation of where we were in the city, we found the apartment we rented on airbnb with minimal trouble.* The host was very nice and showed us the room, kitchen and bathroom and even left towels for us to use. Not to mention, when showing us the changing uplighting behind the bed in the room, he said "I like to keep this light on because it reminds me of a disco!" Pretty cool dude.

Once we were all cleaned up, we headed back into the heart of Stuttgart and instantly found the massive Christmas world that is set up in the city. With over 250 vendors, Stuttgarter Weihnachtsmarkt** boasts one of the biggest and oldest Christmas markets in Germany. Meandering from booth to booth, I was entranced by the crafts, talents, and food of each and every owner. Even the booths themselves were a sight to see, with each of them being expertly decorated and full of Christmas cheer. Although the vendors do try to make the main focus of their booth be the product that they sell, in so many cases the ornate expression of holiday cheer, which is individually different from booth to booth, made a greater effect to the passing eye. Not just the market booths were carefully decorated but the many trees, nutcrackers, and other festive garb made this market breathtaking to view.


Christmas wonderland

Booths upon booths.
In the market stands themselves, you found an array of items to buy as gifts, from hand-painted ornaments to jewelry and little wooden toys to handmade lights. Each vendor was exquisitely proud of their craft, and willing to show you what they do, or even explain it to you. As none of us spoke German, sometimes this just ended with a bunch of nodding, but if they happened to speak English, they were more than happy to explain the best they could in another language. Although I still don't know any German, I do say that my experience in Germany was an extremely positive one, as all the people I met were extremely friendly and if they didn't know how to speak English, they would try to explain slowly with lots of hand motions and a smile. The German people made a great impression on me.




We spent three hours in the afternoon wandering the whole length of the market, mostly looking but with a bit of buying here and there. Along with shopping booths at the Christmas market, about half of the booths housed food and the German Christmas market staple: glühwein. Glühwein is pretty much the same thing as vin chaud, or mulled wine, but in my opinion is even better in Germany. They give you the wine in a collector's mug, which you pay a little extra for, but you can keep going back and refilling it, or even turn the mug back in and get the money you paid for it back! Definitely enjoyed many a glühwein throughout the day on Saturday.


Another reason I was excited to visit Germany was for the food it promised, and it sure did not disappoint! First, I enjoyed the most popular item being sold at the Christmas market: lebkuchenherz, or heart cookie necklaces. Seriously, we saw SO many stands selling these things, and although they are normally given as gifts, I had to enjoy one because... it's a vacation!

Mine said Princess in German - are you really that surprised?!
Next, we all split a bratwurst and sauerkraut. As I had never tried either, I was surprised at how much I liked them, they were both so tasty! Since I have been in France, I have had trouble getting enough protein, as meat is hard for me to come by (and hard to cook on my hot plate). Needless to say, I was so happy to have such delicious weiners this weekend.

To be exact: it was a Rote Wurst
Cabbage, a type of potatoe-dumpling-noodle and bacon. I'm in love.
After three hours of wandering, shopping and eating outside, we ducked in to a small cafe to warm up a bit. Not knowing exactly what I ordered (again, this German thing is hard, ok?!), I was surprised by a lovely hot lattino caramel, which was basically a hot caramel latte. Now many of you know that I don't really like coffee, but this was honestly one of the best coffee drinks I've ever had. I could have drank it every day!


By the time we left the cafe, the sun was down and all the lights within the city were turned on. Although we had explored the market during the day, it had a whole different look and feel at night, with the lights twinkling and street musicians playing christmas carols on their instruments of choice. In one of the biggest squares in town Schlossplatz, we found the beautiful courtyard of the Altes Schloss and Neues Schloss (Old and New Castle). Already beautiful on its own, this square right now is filled with a children's toyland for the holidays, complete with ice-skating rink and carnival rides along with more market vendors.



As hunger was calling again soon, I decided to have another German tradition: a butter bretzel. Basically a soft pretzel with butter in the middle.

Yummmm
... and I maybe had another Rote Wurst.

Just couldn't stay away!
Walking back through the market again with all the lights on made me full of true Christmas spirit. I was extremely lucky to be able to have gone to these markets, something that I have always wanted to experience. Under the twinkling lights, with great company and delicious food, I could not be more grateful of my quick trip to Germany,




Sunday morning, we awoke early for our short train to Strasbourg. Once arriving in the station, we were told that there were were Christmas market vendors for Strasbourg's market right outside the door to the station. With an hour to kill, and maybe feeling some withdrawals from Stuttgart's market, we went and enjoyed a quick glass of white glühwein, which is even better than the German red version I had drank the day before, along with bretzel and a quick wander through the market. After a long 5 hour train ride back to Avignon and a 2 hour bus back to Apt, I have made it home after another whirlwind weekend of travel. I am so thrilled to have been able to go to Germany - the country actually really surprised me, I really liked my visit there! I definitely want to go back again sometime in the future. So for now Germany, you're in - Auf Wiedersehen!***

*The only real trouble was the fact that it was lightly raining and we ended taking about 45 minutes to find the apartment. We were a little wet.  Oh, and the fact that we were trying to be more German and not cross roads during red lights, even if there were no cars around. Those darn Germans always follow the rules!
**Translation: Stuttgart Christmas Market.
***I really hope someone gets the Project Runway reference with that or all is lost.

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