To the home of chocolate and watches!

Wednesdays in Provence: it is really hard to explain what happens on a Wednesday here... because really, not that much happens at all. Schools close early, there are rarely any shops or restaurants open throughout the afternoon, buses run on a limited schedule - it is like a miniature "day of rest" in a region where life already moves at a slow pace.

Yesterday was just that - a miniature day of rest. Took care of a few things in town as well as more laundry and cleaning. I also started packing for the weekend trip I am taking (details forthcoming). In the evening, Amy arrived! Last night and today, we have been getting acquainted and have been sorting out some of the things that she needed to get done. It was helpful that I had done most of the stuff in the past week, so I knew where we needed to go most of the time - maybe I am getting to be more Apt-ois as the days go on! I am so happy to have someone to share my time with here, and traveling around Europe!

Another thing that happened today that made me feel like I truly live here: I received mail! And not just any mail, mail from the French government, from my French bank and even a thank you card from Molly and John back in the U.S. - three letters in one day! I was pretty happy.*

Three letters = three times the happiness

So speaking of happiness....I am SO happy to be able to explore a new country and city this weekend.... I will give a few clues to where I am going for the next 4 days... (if you already know, just play along until you reach the end)

I am going to the country that is famous for....

Chocolate.....

This specific type of cheese....

Watches (there is also a hint within this decoration on this watch)...

And the snowy peaks of one of the most renowned mountain ranges in the world...

 

 So where am I going you might ask?? If you haven't figured it out by now...

SWITZERLAND!

Specifically, Zurich which is beautifully pictured above. I'm pretty excited.

I leave tomorrow morning for a 6 hour train ride to Zurich, where I will be meeting up with my brother, Dan, and my sister-in-law Brenna to spend the weekend with them there. Dan will be there for the next two weeks on business and I am so happy that the stars aligned: that I am in France at the same time he is in Switzerland. I feel so blessed to be able to see family (especially family that recently moved across the country) and to explore a new city and country with them. I will be back in France Monday evening, full of stories, pictures and smiles to share, I am sure. Until then, I will bid adieu to this blog - its off to the land of Albert Einstein I go!**

*Mail makes me happy. That being said, I would love to receive other cards, postcards, letters, packages, etc. If you would like my address/want me to send a postcard your way, send me a message!

**Maybe I can soak up a bit of his intelligence while I am there.... Not making any promises.

Toute seule en Provence

Toute seule is one of those French phrases that can have many different meanings, depending on who it is coming from and what context it is being used in. In the simplest of translations, it means alone. But it can also have the connotation of a borderline exaggeration, meaning completely alone; to find out if one is in a relationship, it could mean single; and said with the right intonation, it can mean lonely.

I have gotten that question numerous times with the various meanings listed above this past week: “Tu es toute seule?” And I can never quite decide how to answer it. Because although, yes, I have been the only one living in this apartment this past week, I don’t ever feel like I have been truly alone. The Provencal people here have a way of making you feel welcome, whether they are inviting you over to spend Sunday lunch with their family or just offering a friendly “bonjour!” as you are walking down the street. I am not joking about the bonjour thing; it happens with nearly every person I pass on the street. I feel like I am Belle in the fictitious village she lived in Beauty and the Beast, with people just continuing to shout it everywhere.

Really though, this is my life!

For the past two days in Provence, I truly have been toute seule and have been living life just like that. Yesterday, I had what I dubbed a lazy lundi – I attempted to stay in and clean, paint my nails and continue reading. I did have to go out to get food at the cantine and to recharge my internet (which I found out is not unlimited…. whoops). 

Today, I went out on a mission. A few days ago, on looking through my information for my bank account, I realized they had recorded the wrong address on my statement. I also wanted to put money into my account so I could get set up a direct pay contract for internet, so I figured I would have to make an appointment of some sort to do this. I walked in and explained my problem to the woman at the desk and that I wanted to put money in my account. She did it all for me in less than 5 minutes. Chouette! AND she complimented me on how well I spoke French, totally voluntarily. Guess I am improving!

Then I was off to SFR to change my plan with them. From what I had read, I would have to sign up for a 12 month contract, except that I am only going to be here for 9 months. I explained my predicament to the woman working, and she said that she found that I could still set up a monthly plan with them (which includes less money, more usage and is directly taken from my bank account) without a contract. SCORE! And on my walk back to the apartment, whilst saying a passing-by bonjour to the cafeteria cooks (I am serious about this bonjour thing), I got to talking with one of the chefs and he wants me to tutor his son in English! Such an awesome opportunity, hope I’ll get the chance to do it! I seriously felt so accomplished today that I decided to tackle a few other French things I had been avoiding… like….how to do laundry. (cue scary music here)

After reading the paper directions, looking up clearer directions online, and navigating the washer, I successfully did a load of darks! And my clothes aren’t ruined! 

Took me awhile to figure out which setting to use...

Yes, a popular laundry detergent in France sounds a heck of a lot like the town I live in. Don't be fooled, not produced here.

One of the four page confusing directions, so....

How-to blogs save me again!

How to dry clothes in France: use hanging rack, line dry outside of window (not shown), or hang off every possible surface in the room.

Another thing that I have been trying to avoid, how to use the heating plate and to make my own dinner, I accomplished today as well! I made a dinner for myself of beef ravioli with tomato sauce* along with a fresh baguette that I picked up in town today.

The ravioli was actually kind of disgusting, definitely not the same as the US!

Tomorrow brings another day of getting organized. Today, I received my first rent facture, or bill, for next month. So, it will be time to go to le service intendance to take care of that, as well as give them my relevé d’identité bancaire** and ask about how I may be able to get an advance on my first salary. Oh, the amount of administrative work to get this all set up… I will be happy when it is all organized. And tomorrow also brings the arrival of my roommate and other English assistant, Amy! Will be happy to finally share the apartment and my time here with someone else, plus it will be nice to not be “toute seule” anymore. But for tonight, I will enjoy my last night here to myself – reading and watching Friends in French. C’est la vie, la vie d’une assistante.

*I know what you’re thinking Mom, but it is really one of the only things I can make with what I have available. 

**From what I understand about this document, it facilitates setting up direct deposits from employers or payments to companies for rent and such. I don’t know what the translation of it would be in America, just another completely necessary French document. Like the other 100 I need. 

***Translation: That’s life, the life of an assistant.

A day of rest? Never.

Sundays in southern France are extremely different than Sundays in America. Most restaurants and stores are closed - the day is reserved as a true day of rest, to spend time with family and friends or go to church if you may be religious (though many are not in this part of France, as I have noticed).

Today, I was invited to spend the day with my coordinating teacher Cathy and her family. She mentioned that a few friends might be coming the other day but wasn't sure. As we hadn't spoken in a few days, I wasn't going to be surprised if she forgot about inviting me. But sure enough, at 10:30am, I receive a text saying she was on her way to pick me up and a note saying to bring tennis shoes, as we will probably be going for a walk in the afternoon. This should have been my first clue as to the day's plans.

When she came to pick me up at the school, she called and told me to meet her across the street as she couldn't get through. I was confused by this, until I reached the front parking lot and noticed the whole lot was taken up by people selling their old stuff. Like a garage sale but in someone else's lot. When she asked me what was going on, I tried my best to explain in French the scene. She then gave me a new word to describe it: vide-grenier - literally, emptying everything out of your attic. If they are items of actual value (read: antiques), it is known as marché brocante (translation: flea market) - but in this case, it definitely was a vide-grenier.

We proceeded to drive to Cathy's house which is in a village that is about a 10 minute drive away from Apt, called Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, a littler, more typical provencal town. I was immediately greeted by the rest of her family, her two daughters Eloise and Amandine, and her husband Marc who is another one of the English teachers I will be working with here at the lycée. Then, with the dog Fluffy in tow, we proceeded to do a quick hike of the village and the historical buildings it posesses. Now, when I say quick, I was later told that that same hike is normally done in an hour and a half. We completed it in a half hour.

As I didn't bring my nice camera with me (I wasn't sure of the day's plans), here is what I managed to capture of the beautiful hike throughout the hills of the Luberon through the view of my camera phone.

View of the rolling hills of the Luberon. Yup, this is where I live!

L'eglise de Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, the church of the village.

Le moulin, or windmill, which dates back to the 12 century. Actually there are 4 of these on site but this one is in the best condition.

The walking was a little rough, I almost slipped several times.

La chapelle de Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, which also dates back to the 12th century. You can only reach it by foot, and again it is a little slippery to make it all the way to the top.

Beautiful view of Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt from the pathway leading to the chapel.

Another view of the pathway and town (and that's Eloise on the right!)

After that light hike, we returned back to the house to meet Cathy's friend, Patrick, and his wife. Patrick is also and English teacher and him and his wife live in Nice. We all sat down and had a typical French Sunday lunch with 4 courses. First, vegetable salad with a chilled white cheese sauce*. Second, and main course, poulet et poivrons rouges, which was chicken with green and red peppers served over rice. Third, the cheese plate, which included three goat cheeses and even the American delicacy "Philidelphia" (aka: cream cheese)**. Fourth, and finally, dessert which was an almond and raisin tart AND les flambottes (spelling?), which resembled whipped cream mixed with crème anglaise. Yes, there were two desserts, and of course bread and red wine filled for every course. As I haven't eaten much since I've gotten here, I ate about two day's worth in that one sitting. It was absolutely marvelous.

After lunch, we went on a more leisurely stroll through the hills of the Luberon. It was just so nice to spend such a beautiful day with such kind people. Although the entire day French was spoken between everyone (with a word or two in English every once in awhile), I had little trouble comprehending. When they asked me at lunch why I've come here this year, what do I hope to accomplish, I said without a doubt to improve my French. I really think that they took that to heart, as I learned so much already today, and it sounds like they will continue to help me in my quest. They already agreed that when we are at school in front of students, we will speak in English. But at any other time, French will be used so I can continue to practice. The pure generosity and kindness I have been greeted with just being here for five days makes me realize what an amazing experience this already is.

After talking for a bit more, and saying goodbyes and mercis, complete with me exchanging la bise (as they said "tu es française maintenant!" translation: you are french now, it was almost an expression saying ‘you are one of us!’), I left with Patrick and his wife, as they could drop me off on their way back to Nice. As they dropped me at the school, they said that if I ever want to go that part of the coast, I would surely have a "stopover" with them. Again, so kind after knowing me for such short a time.

I guess you could say I checked off one of the things from my bucket list already today: "hiked around the hills of the Luberon with no itinerary in mind." Although my incredibly sore legs would not agree that this was truly a "day of rest", I think I can truly say that it was a day well spent.

*I know what you all are thinking: yes, I had the cheese sauce. It looked like and tasted sour cream, so that was fine.

**Again, I see your confused faces out there: yes, I partook in the cheese plate. Again, since I was their main guest they kept serving me first, and I didn't want to be rude. However, one of those goat cheeses... really scared me... I had to just swallow it hole with a sip of wine. Cheers!

Market Day

Think of the quote I said in my last post from the man that worked at the bank, with his opinion that "Apt is dead". Now take that image in your mind and completely reverse it, and that is market day here in this quaint, provençal town.

I went to bed early last night, knowing it is good to get up early to go the markets in whatever town you may be visiting in Provence, as they tend to get busy and picked over by the end of the market time. I was greeted this morning with the natural alarm of the Luberon countryside - a rooster crowing to signal the sunrise. I was up and out of the apartment by 9:30.

Now, Apt is known for its Saturday market so when I looked up the time and place online (8h-13h, place de la bouquerie), I figured it probably wasn't just in that square in town but thought I would have to go searching for it a bit. I couldn't have been more wrong. Immediately, once I got to the gate of the school, the school parking lot was completely full. No, the cars weren't of parents or faculty members picking up children*, they were all overflow parking, with the outlined spaces on the asphalt clearly being just a suggestion. I looked across to the center of town and immediately, down every narrow street and square you could see were vendors selling their trade. And people. Lots of people.

I have been to many provençal markets before, as when I studied in Aix, there were several there and with each small town we visited (gordes, lourmarin, st tropez, moustier ste marie, etc), we explored their markets. However, this may be the most extensive market I have ever seen. With every winding turn in the incredibly narrow streets in this labyrinth of a village, you continued to find more and more people selling their craft. Just when you expected it to be done, you turned another corner and there was a gruff, rotund man sharpening knives or a gray haired main selling wooden toys to a little boy.

The atmosphere of the market in Apt in one word... alive. Without a doubt. The vendors are yelling wildly as each passerby examines their goods, hoping to make some type of sale. Old friends meet and exchange la bise and catch up while buying their fresh produce and spices. However, everyone is a new friend at the market and you are treated as part of the family as you go about your weekly shopping. The smell of olives, herbes de provence, and lavender permeates the air. The faint strains of an accordion, the upbeat strums of an acoustic guitar and the energetic bleats of a harmonica all set the soundtrack for this chaotic yet completely organized affair. You can find just about anything with this extensive outdoor mall from fresh fruits and vegetables, to old books and DVDs, to clothes and jewelry, to linens and home goods. The possibilities are endless, and so are the crowds of people.

You will find that I didn't get many pictures of this amazing experience I am having trouble putting into words and that is because of one thing: too many people. I had heard that this market could get pretty busy, especially during the summer and when the weather is nice. I had underestimated this warning and found that I was little stuck shoulder to shoulder in the small passageways that are the streets of Apt. Every time I got a little space, I attempted to capture the pure, simple beauty of le marché d'Apt. 

Les lavandes

Les cigales, or cicadas, are celebrated here in the South of France. Their nightly sounds signal the beginning of a summer, a good omen you could say.

One of the many fresh produce vendors

Spice vendor

Here is one of the street musicians I was talking about

Olives (and therefore olive oil, olive tapenade, etc) are one of the main produce items grown in Provence.

Knowing my incredible hatred for cheese, I stayed away from this table. But had to get a picture!

I was anticipating spending just over an hour at the market today, as I just needed a few things and was going really to enjoy the experience of the market. I have never been one to buy a lot at one. I ended up leaving after almost three hours, with lunch, a new basket, some fresh produce, a towel for the apartment and mason jar. All for under 30 euros. That's the other thing great about the markets, you can get a lot of stuff, at a very little price.

After such a wonderful time today, I am definitely returning to the Saturday market here as often as I can.** As the weather cools down, I have heard that it gets less busy, which may be better get some wonderful pictures for all of you. Tonight, I am beginning to check off one of the items on my Europe bucket list - I am starting to read Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone in French. It was left here by a past assistant and it sounds like a fun read right now. After seeing so many interesting books at the market today, I definitely think I will be reading a lot more than just the one I put on the list, but it was a way for me to start. And fyi, Hogwarts in French is Poudlard - definitely doesn't have the same ring to it.