Market Day

Think of the quote I said in my last post from the man that worked at the bank, with his opinion that "Apt is dead". Now take that image in your mind and completely reverse it, and that is market day here in this quaint, provençal town.

I went to bed early last night, knowing it is good to get up early to go the markets in whatever town you may be visiting in Provence, as they tend to get busy and picked over by the end of the market time. I was greeted this morning with the natural alarm of the Luberon countryside - a rooster crowing to signal the sunrise. I was up and out of the apartment by 9:30.

Now, Apt is known for its Saturday market so when I looked up the time and place online (8h-13h, place de la bouquerie), I figured it probably wasn't just in that square in town but thought I would have to go searching for it a bit. I couldn't have been more wrong. Immediately, once I got to the gate of the school, the school parking lot was completely full. No, the cars weren't of parents or faculty members picking up children*, they were all overflow parking, with the outlined spaces on the asphalt clearly being just a suggestion. I looked across to the center of town and immediately, down every narrow street and square you could see were vendors selling their trade. And people. Lots of people.

I have been to many provençal markets before, as when I studied in Aix, there were several there and with each small town we visited (gordes, lourmarin, st tropez, moustier ste marie, etc), we explored their markets. However, this may be the most extensive market I have ever seen. With every winding turn in the incredibly narrow streets in this labyrinth of a village, you continued to find more and more people selling their craft. Just when you expected it to be done, you turned another corner and there was a gruff, rotund man sharpening knives or a gray haired main selling wooden toys to a little boy.

The atmosphere of the market in Apt in one word... alive. Without a doubt. The vendors are yelling wildly as each passerby examines their goods, hoping to make some type of sale. Old friends meet and exchange la bise and catch up while buying their fresh produce and spices. However, everyone is a new friend at the market and you are treated as part of the family as you go about your weekly shopping. The smell of olives, herbes de provence, and lavender permeates the air. The faint strains of an accordion, the upbeat strums of an acoustic guitar and the energetic bleats of a harmonica all set the soundtrack for this chaotic yet completely organized affair. You can find just about anything with this extensive outdoor mall from fresh fruits and vegetables, to old books and DVDs, to clothes and jewelry, to linens and home goods. The possibilities are endless, and so are the crowds of people.

You will find that I didn't get many pictures of this amazing experience I am having trouble putting into words and that is because of one thing: too many people. I had heard that this market could get pretty busy, especially during the summer and when the weather is nice. I had underestimated this warning and found that I was little stuck shoulder to shoulder in the small passageways that are the streets of Apt. Every time I got a little space, I attempted to capture the pure, simple beauty of le marché d'Apt. 

Les lavandes

Les cigales, or cicadas, are celebrated here in the South of France. Their nightly sounds signal the beginning of a summer, a good omen you could say.

One of the many fresh produce vendors

Spice vendor

Here is one of the street musicians I was talking about

Olives (and therefore olive oil, olive tapenade, etc) are one of the main produce items grown in Provence.

Knowing my incredible hatred for cheese, I stayed away from this table. But had to get a picture!

I was anticipating spending just over an hour at the market today, as I just needed a few things and was going really to enjoy the experience of the market. I have never been one to buy a lot at one. I ended up leaving after almost three hours, with lunch, a new basket, some fresh produce, a towel for the apartment and mason jar. All for under 30 euros. That's the other thing great about the markets, you can get a lot of stuff, at a very little price.

After such a wonderful time today, I am definitely returning to the Saturday market here as often as I can.** As the weather cools down, I have heard that it gets less busy, which may be better get some wonderful pictures for all of you. Tonight, I am beginning to check off one of the items on my Europe bucket list - I am starting to read Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone in French. It was left here by a past assistant and it sounds like a fun read right now. After seeing so many interesting books at the market today, I definitely think I will be reading a lot more than just the one I put on the list, but it was a way for me to start. And fyi, Hogwarts in French is Poudlard - definitely doesn't have the same ring to it.