"It's a vacation!" - Weekend in Germany with Weiners, Glühwein, and Weihnachtsmarkt

Our long journey to Bavaria began very late Friday night, with an overnight train from Avignon. As I nor any of the girls had rode in overnight train, we did not know quite what to expect. The train itself had places where you could just sit in a reclining seat all night or you could opt for a bunk. We decided that we wanted to be able to sleep and chose the bunks. What we were greeted with were small compartments with three bunks stacked on each side. We had lots of fun climbing and playing in our own private compartment, and although the excitement and adrenaline of going to Germany kept me up a while, I did get some sleep on this overnight train.

Clearly, we were excited for Germany.

Awaking at 9am when our train arrived in Strasbourg, we enjoyed the beautiful decorations and architecture in Gare de Strasbourg while eating some pain au chocolats from Paul.

The train station was quite pretty, with interesting ceilings and sculptures.

My fav!

After a short train ride across the border, we arrived in Stuttgart. Once we found a map of the city and asked for some orientation of where we were in the city, we found the apartment we rented on airbnb with minimal trouble.* The host was very nice and showed us the room, kitchen and bathroom and even left towels for us to use. Not to mention, when showing us the changing uplighting behind the bed in the room, he said "I like to keep this light on because it reminds me of a disco!" Pretty cool dude.

Once we were all cleaned up, we headed back into the heart of Stuttgart and instantly found the massive Christmas world that is set up in the city. With over 250 vendors, Stuttgarter Weihnachtsmarkt** boasts one of the biggest and oldest Christmas markets in Germany. Meandering from booth to booth, I was entranced by the crafts, talents, and food of each and every owner. Even the booths themselves were a sight to see, with each of them being expertly decorated and full of Christmas cheer. Although the vendors do try to make the main focus of their booth be the product that they sell, in so many cases the ornate expression of holiday cheer, which is individually different from booth to booth, made a greater effect to the passing eye. Not just the market booths were carefully decorated but the many trees, nutcrackers, and other festive garb made this market breathtaking to view.

Christmas wonderland

Booths upon booths.

In the market stands themselves, you found an array of items to buy as gifts, from hand-painted ornaments to jewelry and little wooden toys to handmade lights. Each vendor was exquisitely proud of their craft, and willing to show you what they do, or even explain it to you. As none of us spoke German, sometimes this just ended with a bunch of nodding, but if they happened to speak English, they were more than happy to explain the best they could in another language. Although I still don't know any German, I do say that my experience in Germany was an extremely positive one, as all the people I met were extremely friendly and if they didn't know how to speak English, they would try to explain slowly with lots of hand motions and a smile. The German people made a great impression on me.

We spent three hours in the afternoon wandering the whole length of the market, mostly looking but with a bit of buying here and there. Along with shopping booths at the Christmas market, about half of the booths housed food and the German Christmas market staple: glühwein. Glühwein is pretty much the same thing as vin chaud, or mulled wine, but in my opinion is even better in Germany. They give you the wine in a collector's mug, which you pay a little extra for, but you can keep going back and refilling it, or even turn the mug back in and get the money you paid for it back! Definitely enjoyed many a glühwein throughout the day on Saturday.

Another reason I was excited to visit Germany was for the food it promised, and it sure did not disappoint! First, I enjoyed the most popular item being sold at the Christmas market: lebkuchenherz, or heart cookie necklaces. Seriously, we saw SO many stands selling these things, and although they are normally given as gifts, I had to enjoy one because... it's a vacation!

Mine said Princess in German - are you really that surprised?!

Next, we all split a bratwurst and sauerkraut. As I had never tried either, I was surprised at how much I liked them, they were both so tasty! Since I have been in France, I have had trouble getting enough protein, as meat is hard for me to come by (and hard to cook on my hot plate). Needless to say, I was so happy to have such delicious weiners this weekend.

To be exact: it was a Rote Wurst

Cabbage, a type of potatoe-dumpling-noodle and bacon. I'm in love.

After three hours of wandering, shopping and eating outside, we ducked in to a small cafe to warm up a bit. Not knowing exactly what I ordered (again, this German thing is hard, ok?!), I was surprised by a lovely hot lattino caramel, which was basically a hot caramel latte. Now many of you know that I don't really like coffee, but this was honestly one of the best coffee drinks I've ever had. I could have drank it every day!

By the time we left the cafe, the sun was down and all the lights within the city were turned on. Although we had explored the market during the day, it had a whole different look and feel at night, with the lights twinkling and street musicians playing christmas carols on their instruments of choice. In one of the biggest squares in town Schlossplatz, we found the beautiful courtyard of the Altes Schloss and Neues Schloss (Old and New Castle). Already beautiful on its own, this square right now is filled with a children's toyland for the holidays, complete with ice-skating rink and carnival rides along with more market vendors.

As hunger was calling again soon, I decided to have another German tradition: a butter bretzel. Basically a soft pretzel with butter in the middle.

Yummmm

... and I maybe had another Rote Wurst.

Just couldn't stay away!

Walking back through the market again with all the lights on made me full of true Christmas spirit. I was extremely lucky to be able to have gone to these markets, something that I have always wanted to experience. Under the twinkling lights, with great company and delicious food, I could not be more grateful of my quick trip to Germany,

Sunday morning, we awoke early for our short train to Strasbourg. Once arriving in the station, we were told that there were were Christmas market vendors for Strasbourg's market right outside the door to the station. With an hour to kill, and maybe feeling some withdrawals from Stuttgart's market, we went and enjoyed a quick glass of white glühwein, which is even better than the German red version I had drank the day before, along with bretzel and a quick wander through the market. After a long 5 hour train ride back to Avignon and a 2 hour bus back to Apt, I have made it home after another whirlwind weekend of travel. I am so thrilled to have been able to go to Germany - the country actually really surprised me, I really liked my visit there! I definitely want to go back again sometime in the future. So for now Germany, you're in - Auf Wiedersehen!***

*The only real trouble was the fact that it was lightly raining and we ended taking about 45 minutes to find the apartment. We were a little wet.  Oh, and the fact that we were trying to be more German and not cross roads during red lights, even if there were no cars around. Those darn Germans always follow the rules!
**Translation: Stuttgart Christmas Market.
***I really hope someone gets the Project Runway reference with that or all is lost.

I'm coming for you, Allemagne!

After a busy week teaching here in Apt, I am happy to say that it is the beginning of my last weekend in Europe before Christmas break. One week from today, I will be in Avignon and will take the first train to Paris Friday morning, beginning my flights home. I can not begin to explain my excitement to be able to see friends and family for the holidays so soon, what a blessing this Christmas!

My week of teaching was full of ups and downs as usual. On Tuesday, I had a great day full interested motivated students. One even came up to me after class and inquired about having private lessons with me starting after the break! Such a joy to teach when the students are invested in learning.

Wednesday, I continued to have good classes and got another offer to give private lessons for a student at the college*. His teacher is one that talks with me quite often in the staff room, as she studied at Albion College and has been to Kalamazoo. Small world, right? Anyway, she said that he does not know much English and may not be that motivated but she thinks he would benefit from the lessons. I am excited to have this potential opportunity as well, being able to use my knowledge for teaching all levels. Plus, it is always great to have a little extra money and more to do around Apt!

After class, I had a lovely lunch with Amy and Alison back at the apartment, complete with wine and baguette. It was nice to all catch up after so much traveling, we all had many stories to share. As the daylight was soon ending, I managed to squeeze in a pile of errands in town. As I was walking back into town while the sun was setting, I realized clearly how comfortable I have gotten here. It was one of those rare times you reflect on where you've been and how much you have changed - the person that arrived here in France three months ago is certainly different than the person I am now. I have pushed myself to see new places, use French in everyday life and in some sticky situations**, meet people from many different countries and walks of life, and overall become a stronger, more independent and self-assured person. All of this has happened in three months, I can not imagine how I much I will change within the next 4-5 months after I come back to France. All I can say is I am excited for the journey.

Today was just my typical busy Thursday of six classes, though upon meeting my teacher for my second class, I was free from my duties as they were watching a movie and forgot that I was coming. Some things never change. Also with that sentiment, I was informed today that I do not need to show up to any of my classes Tuesday, as all English classes are taking the BAC blanc - a mock version of the big standardized test that all French youngsters take at the end of their high school career and determines the outcome of the rest of their lives. Think of the SAT, but on steroids. Either way, this means that I will be only working 10 hours next week - Merry Christmas to me!

A couple interesting things happened in class today. The first was in a very well behaved class, one of the best students who constantly participates accidentally said f***. I know what you're thinking, how can you accidentally say that?! But he was trying very hard to make his phrase and accidentally said something wrong grammatically and before I could help him, it slipped out under his breath. What ensued next was a comical scene of him digging his hole deeper, by saying "oh my gosh! S*** I mean, crap, I'm so sorry!" and so on. I told him it was fine and that everyone makes mistakes but for it to not happen again. Poor kid even came up to me after class to apologize to me again!

In one of my more difficult classes to teach, I was told that I was going to take five students as usual, but to be prepared as these ones would probably not want to talk or participate. As this was normal for me with this group, I made no big reaction. However, one of the students refused to go, and he got in a heated argument with the teacher, which led to him screaming about the last time he went with me "je n'ai pas pu comprendre rien!"*** Needless to say, he was sent down to the Vie Scolaire and issued some punishment. Was still interesting to witness an argument about me... that I could definitely understand every word...

Then, in my final class of the day, you may remember that I had to kick out a kid from this class last week. Upon the teacher asking, I showed her which student it was. Then she proceeded to lecture the whole class while I was standing there, pinpointing the student and asking him what happened. He was forced to apologize to me in front of everyone. Though awkward, it made his behavior much better and the class better in general. I hope the impact of this chat continues to future weeks.

With all of this, I am happy that it is the weekend! Even more so, I am so excited to say that I am visiting a new country - Germany! Tomorrow, after a day of packing, planning and cleaning at home, I will take an overnight train from Avignon to Stuttgart with Liz and Nysa. We will have all Saturday to explore the city and wander around its amazing Christmas markets, traveling back on Sunday. I can  not think of a better way to spend the weekend before I go home for the holidays, soaking up as much Bavaria as I can in one of the oldest Christmas markets in Germany. So until next week, Auf Wiedersehen!****

Will be walking through here so soon!

 
*college = middle school in France. No, it's nothing like college in the U.S.
**Though I still feel like I can/need to improve A LOT more. But that's what I feel like learning a foreign language is: a lifelong education.
***Translation: I could not understand anything!
****Also, say a little prayer for me... I just had to look up what goodbye was in German. Hoping my English and French will get me by!