Climb Every Mountain

This morning, the rays coming through the window as I write this post, along with the sound of the rushing river below, puts me in a state of sheer bliss. This Monday morning sans teaching was just what I needed to reflect on what a great weekend I had.

A very Valentine's sunset Friday night

Saturday morning, Amy, Alison and I awoke early and took the windy two hour bus to Aix-en-Provence. Although we have taken this bus before, so we were warned about how queasy our stomachs can get, I thought it wouldn’t be a problem this time. I was wrong – the whole morning ride there I was clenching my stomach, hoping I would not get sick. But because I was awake the entire time, I did get to see the breathtaking sunrise over the Provencal countryside.

Sunrise

Once back on our feet, we walked through town to have a nice sit down breakfast at le pain quotidien. It was such a wonderful morning, and very different from the last time we visited – sunny blue skies with warm temperatures and a nice dose of wind. I enjoyed a croissant and chocolat chaud, which sounds like a simple meal but of all of the hot chocolates I have tried here in France, this one was by far the best.*

After checking in at the tourist office for bus schedules and information, we were off to la Montagne Sainte-Victoire, the inspiration for many of Paul Cezanne’s masterpieces. We thought we had come prepared, armed with sneakers and good walking clothes. However, at the tourist office when I was asking for information, the woman looked me up and down and asked “Et tu es bien equipé?”** As we began our hike to one of the highest points of the mountain, it became increasingly clear that we were not really as equipé as we thought. The rocks were quite slippery to the step, promising that one wrong move or slip could send you rolling down the mountain. The journey might have been better with hiking boots and walking sticks, as the many men that passed us came prepared with. The hike was supposed to take 2.5 hours to the Croix de Provence but after an hour of hiking, we decided to stop on the side of the mountain.

View from where we ate lunch

Once we had taken in this view, we noticed that the wind appeared to be getting stronger but still wanted to make it to our end destination. So we set off prepared to get to the top. We must have gotten only 5 steps up and the wind instantly overtook me and hurled me to the ground. I called to the other girls, saying that although I wanted to get to the top, as it has been something I wanted to do for a long time, it might not be worth it if I just got blown over. They agreed and we decided to stop and take some obligatory shots with the mountain and then headed back down.

The mount on the left is where we ate lunch and the summit on the right is one of the high points of the mountain, where you can find the Cross of Provence

At the bottom of the hike, there was a lovely lake called Lac de Bimont where we enjoyed just relaxing and looking out over its beautiful blue water. After a hike, it was a lovely spot to just rest and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Then we headed back into town, enjoyed a nice drink at a café, walked through some shops (where I might have bought myself a new Longchamp bag as a belated birthday gift…) and munched on a nutella and banana crêpe. As the sun was going down, we boarded the bus back to Apt, which was actually much appreciated to sit after a long day of hiking and exploring. Feeling ultimate laziness, I grabbed a pizza from my favorite place here in town, as I didn’t feel like making anything. I chatted with the pizza maker Xavier about my day, how I like Apt and differences between here and America. It is nice that I can have a casual conversation like this with a total stranger and we can understand each other, plus I am continually surprised and delighted with how friendly people are here in Apt. After eating, I tucked in early for the night, my muscles tired and my heart full of happiness.

I took it easy Sunday and did some cleaning and planning, still thinking about the amazing day I had the day before. I cannot describe the amazing view from the hike and I am so happy I pushed myself to do something that I have wanted to do for so long. Although we didn’t get to the top, I always know that it is about the journey and not the destination. And let me tell you, that journey was incredible - it is a trip I will always remember.

*And since I don’t drink coffee, I have tried a LOT of hot chocolate here. I am basically an expert.

**Translation: And you are equipped? In other words, she was asking if I was ready for how difficult the hike would be.

Célébrez!

After a full day of classes on Thursday, I was tired and ready to just snuggle and watch a movie for the night. However, I was invited to spend the evening at Véronique’s house, with other fellow teachers from the lycée, some English and some who merely speak and understand a bit of English. I have been waiting for this opportunity since plans for it fell through before Christmas, so although I was feeling not up to a night of speaking French (and English, for that matter), Amy and I went off to meet Olivier, who gave us a ride to Véronique’s house.

As I had not yet been to her house, I only had one image in my head of what it might look like: coming from Cathy (ma coordinatrice, or supervisor/colleague, whose house I have been to a few times), “Véro’s house makes my house look like Uncle Tom’s Cabin!” As we drove up her private drive on the side of one of the rolling hills just outside the chic Bonnieux, I marveled at the wonderful pool and garden outside as well as the beautifully decorated interior of the home. It was very provençal, yet in an exquisite way. They immediately handed us glasses of wine and said it was necessary that we celebrate. All of a sudden, Véronique came around the corner with a gift bag in hand and offered a joyous “Happy Birthday!” Everyone commenced in singing the song in English, allowing me to tear up a bit, and was given a beautiful ring to commemorate my time here in France – they said they always wanted me to remember them. Bien sûr, it was a moment that I will never forget.

Then, they shoved food on our plates, which included quiche lorraine, pizza du jambon, an endive salad, cold cuts of ham and salami, bread and a spicy shrimp cocktail salad, followed by dessert of a raspberry tart, brownies and clementines, all while all types of wine were poured, along with an after eating coffee, tea and pastis. I saw my teachers I work with but met their husbands, other teachers from the school and even a Vietnamese landscape worker who is friends with Véro. We spent the night conversing in both French and English, though I must admit they mostly spoke English to us and they would tell stories in French to the group. Best story of the nigh: the story of one of the teacher’s bike trip across America last summer and a very awkward situation that arose on a stay in Kansas. I definitely learned some new vocabulary with that one….

Friday, with one private lesson to teach as one was cancelled, I got all dressed up to go and have a nice dinner to celebrate my birthday with Amy and Alison. As they arrived a little later than expected, they got cleaned up and yelled to me through my door that they were ready to go. I walked into the kitchen and was greeted with a surprise: a stack of delicious brownies topped with lit candles and the girls singing Happy Birthday to me! It was such a sweet gesture (literally, as those speculoos brownies were amazing!) and so unexpected. Thanks girls for the cake and gifts! Then we were off to dinner at le Carnot Set. This is listed on Tripadvisor as being one of the best restaurants in Apt, and it did not disappoint. I had a delicious magret aux cerises, duck with cherries and cherry sauce, served with roasted vegetables, bread and even some fries on the side. It is a definitely a place I want to go back to, as the food was as great as the service, with the chef personally coming out to hand his plates to his customers. This place definitely broke the stereotype that French servers can be cold; they were so kind and friendly. Je reviens bientôt*….

The chef even jumped in for a picture, asian tourist style!

Seriously, AMAZING. My mouth is salivating as I am typing.

Homemade Speculoos Brownies, so delicious!

Sooo.. they didn't know they were trick candles. After five attempts with no avail, we threw them into a bowl of water - definitely blown out now!

Although Saturday was supposed to be spent hiking, seeing the forecast was rain, we decided to call it off and try to go again next week. It was good that we had – we ventured out in the morning to have a nice breakfast at a café and it was pouring rain and windy, making a simple walk through town quite chilling to the bone. In our best efforts, we thought we might rent a car for the day and drive around to visit a few villages. That plan was squashed when we were informed that all cars were already rented out for the rest of February. We decided to stay in, spending the day and night cooking, talking, and even doing some French grammar.** It was a relaxing way to spend the day, and nice to be out of the cold. 

Homemade tomato soup, courtesy of chef Amy

After a lazy, sunny Sunday, I was back to teaching early today. As I was told my students would be going on a field trip that afternoon, I was to prepare a lesson on Nelson Mandela to help them understand the movie. The first class enjoyed learning about him and his important life’s work. On presenting the topic of the day to the second class, I saw one student roll her eyes and turn to her fellow students, complaining in French that they have covered this topic ten times already in their English career. I asked her to speak up and in English and she angrily asked if we could talk about something else today, she was sick of talking about this topic. As no one in the rest of the group was even talking, I was extremely taken aback by her forwardness. However, I was flexible and turned it more into a comparison lesson, asking them for similarities and differences of apartheid and segregation. I had never experienced a student to be so demanding, and in situations like this I feel like it is better to be flexible – I could have said “No, this is what your teacher wants us to talk about and this is what we are doing” but that just makes the student not motivated to participate. I got her and the other students to talk and compare, making me feel quite accomplished today with a difficult situation. This rainy and windy afternoon, I helped chaperone a field trip to the cinema to see Nelson Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. Quel film incroyable! I couldn’t help but cry a few times at the amazing story of this man’s life. Everyone must see this and understand this part of history.

I also received a lovely card in the mail today from Dan and Brenna, thank you! With all the festivities this weekend, it was nice to receive this message from home, making me even more excited to celebrate with them and my parents in 12 DAYS!! That’s right, in less than 2 weeks, my family will be here! The excitement is killing me. For now, I will continue to celebrate my time here, as I am continually realizing there is hardly any time left. On doit célébrer!***

Loved the 3D card!

*Translation: I’ll be back soon….

**I know what you all are thinking: happenin’ Saturday night, right? But really, I needed that grammar review.

***Translation: We must celebrate!

24

On this late Wednesday evening, my heart cannot be fuller. I don't know if that is due to the Pinot Noir I have been lazily drinking tonight, or it is the outpouring of love I have received from family and friends on this day, which happens to be my day of birth. It could be a little bit of both.

The past few days have been nice, albeit a little rainy around here still. Every provençal person I have talked to apologizes for this, saying "This is SO abnormal, it normally never rains here! This is the worst winter in a long time!" Seeing the pictures back in Michigan of the several feet of snow coupled along with the below freezing temperatures, I realize these people here don't know what a real winter looks like!

Monday was another normal day, though an interesting moment came when shopping at the local Camaieu. After going to the till to buy a shirt, the woman asked me if I wanted to sign up for the store card. I replied with a firm yet polite "non, merci" - per usual. This must have been not the right response, as she suddenly shot me a glare and said "you speak english??" Responding with "oui", she said "London?!?" I continued to respond to her in French though she insisted on trying to speak broken English, quite loudly mind you so all the other customers in the store were listening. When I said I was from the states, she practically screamed "OOOHHH!! The STATES!! Ahh coool!" Even the simplest transactions here sometimes make me feel like a sideshow freak.

Tuesday, with another morning class cancelled due to sickness, Amy and I enjoyed some nice sunshine (which is hard to come by these days) with a coffee and wifi break at Bar l'Aptois. After my two afternoon classes, I decided to get out around town and had a nice walk to parts of town that I have never visited. I didn't find much, as it is low season, many of the restaurants and little shops are closed for an annual holiday until February vacations. Sometimes I can walk through alley after alley without seeing a soul - both evoking feelings of peacefulness and isolation.

Blurred Lines... pretty sure this isn't Robin Thicke's style

Today, was both a great day and a very hard one: today was my birthday. It is hard spending a day like this so far away from home, family and friends - you all were on my mind constantly today! Although I woke up to pouring rain outside, I bundled up and headed off to my morning classes, trying to not let the rain get me down. While swimming through the mass of students in the crowded corridor, some of them seeing me and giving their normal "Hellooooo!" greetings, I heard two of my students yell out "Happy Birthday!" I was shocked, I had no idea they knew it was my birthday today - I hadn't told any of my students about it. As you can imagine, the word spread like wildfire throughout this mass of students. So as I walked into my first class moments later, all the students told me “Happy Birthday!” one by one. As we were still waiting for the teacher to return back to the classroom, the students were talking amongst themselves and all of a sudden I heard them all sign out the strains of a very out of tune English Happy Birthday song for me. Quite embarrassed and touched, I thanked them for their thoughtfulness. The teacher came into this scene turned to me and said "Is it your birthday today? How did they know?!" I'm still not entirely sure how this piece of knowledge came into the student's hands, but walking through the school today and seeing student after student call after me with a joyful "Happy Birthday!" made being away from home much easier.

To celebrate, Amy and I decided to have a nice lunch in town, at a restaurant I have been dying to try, Chez mon cousin Alphonse. Although they have the normal standard dishes, along with provençal favorites, this restaurants claim to fame are the pizzas they make over a wood fire. I decided to get the genovèse, which included toppings such as fresh tomatoes, eggplants, pesto and ham. Then, greeted with a dessert menu just as large as the regular one, I decided to get a Coupe Alphonse, an ice cream sundae with spiced bread and caramel ice cream topped with caramel topping. After a little shopping and reading at the library, we trudged back home in the rain, where I cuddled up, caught up on some American shows, and watched Mean Girls while eating a lovely chocolate mousse pastry as my birthday cake. It was a wonderful day.

Delicious!

Birthday Sundae

French version of a birthday cake: chocolate mousse pastry

Many of my close friends and family know that I have been thinking quite a bit about turning 24 the past few weeks, causing me to reflect on the past year of my life. I can't believe so much has happened in the past year: I finished performing my age-out season with my best friends, moved to Indiana for a long-term substitute position, stood up at my brother's wedding, was accepted into the TAPIF program, taught nearly six weeks of band camp (working with the best staff and students I could ever ask for), moved to France, traveled to seven different countries, met people from all around the world, taught English in a foreign country, continued to learn French (everyday), and gained more sense of self than I ever thought imaginable. I have learned that I am so much stronger than I ever thought I could be. Moving to a place that you have never been, knowing not one person, and using a second language that you have rarely used with native speakers is a SCARY thing. But it is also one of the most liberating decisions I have made in my life. I may have a lot of anxiety about "what I should be doing/should have done" by the age 24, but I have come to realize that it doesn't really matter - this is my journey, and I won't compare it to others.

Although this experience is not over for me, there are only 2.5 short months left of teaching and 3.5 in Europe, filled with traveling to so many new places. With my eyes set on the future, it is hard to stay in the present. But I am now realizing I must, as time continues to slip away faster every day. So here's to you, 24 - I will raise my glass and say "Santé!" May this next year of life be as rewarding and empowering as the last.

Singing in the Rain

From this gloomy, lazy Saturday afternoon in Apt, I am happy to be cuddled warm in a blanket, reading David Sedaris' book Me Talk Pretty One Day. This might sound like completely different weather than my last post, where the abundant sunshine was shining in my eyes constantly. The entire week since, it has rained. One day, it even got cold enough that a couple snowflakes were blowing around outside. All I can say about this: thanks Polar Vortex!

Literally, one day after laying out in the sunshine.

Although the rain did make this week quite gloomy, I was still in high spirits after such a relaxing weekend. Monday, after teaching my business English classes, as my boss Alain was driving me home, he promised me that from now on, each week he is going to try to teach me at least one new French word or phrase. I appreciate this, as I find it hard here to get the opportunity to learn a lot of new words with teaching English all the time. He tends to teach me a lot of phrases that are commonly used in conversation, not formal French but more like slang. A couple of this week's words? De sous, meaning money (though I never had heard of this word to describe it) and le nec plus ultra, meaning the best thing.

In honor of my good mood and rain, my love for Gene Kelly continues...

Along with the less than fantastic weather, sickness riddled my work-week. With all the students bringing kleenex with them to class, it was hard to get them motivated to speak a lot of English. After discussing pedagogy with my teachers, I learned a few new techniques that help with the lack of motivation, like the difference between creators and imitators. It proved helpful in later lessons during the week! That is, the lessons that did not get cancelled - on Thursday, my normal 6 lessons turned into 2 as all others had been cancelled due to teachers being sick.

Friday brought a busy day teaching. Actually it was the busiest day of this past week teaching-wise! Even though I do not teach at the lycée on Fridays, I taught 3 hours of private lessons. It was my third week working with a boy from the collège, and I think that we are really starting to make some progress. He really tries to use as much English as possible, rather than before he would spout off in French if he didn't know what to say. Also, he was brave enough to voluntarily show me his last quiz score, which was less than stellar. As he handed it to me, he said "yeah, this is a sad contrôle*". I said that it is fine to make mistakes, we just have to learn from it and try harder next time. I took notes of what we could work on for next week, and he left feeling accomplished.

My other lesson yesterday was with a girl that is one of my students at the lycée. It was our first lesson together, and we spoke constantly for two hours in English. I am extremely impressed at how well she speaks English, telling me how she went to an international school in Holland where they spoke English in every class. It was quite enjoyable to just sit and talk to a young person in English and for us to understand each other so well. I have found that for every 5 students that are uninterested in English here, there is one that is so incredibly passionate and curious about the language that the other unmotivated, impolite students seem to not bother me as much. I am so blessed that I have gotten the opportunity to teach in a classroom setting here in France but also to have had such a variety of private lesson clients. From middle age Business associates talking about technology to a thirteen year-old boy having difficulty being able to introduce himself, I have really broadened my abilities in teaching for different levels and with different goals in mind.**

Although this past week has been great, I did feel quite a bit homesick. I think this was due to a combination of my birthday being so soon*** and the gross weather, neither of which improved my mood. I know that I will have an amazing birthday here in France, but there is nothing like having your family and friends around to celebrate another year of life. Even though my birthday is on Wednesday, we are going to celebrate on Saturday by climbing the Mont Sainte-Victoire, just outside of Aix-en-Provence. It was something I really wanted to do when I studied in Aix but never got around to it. Now, in honor of 24, and weather providing, I am finally going to climb that mountain and I can't be more excited about it. Until then, a relaxing weekend and week will be just what I need to welcome another year in my life. And maybe a little bit of the Pinot Noir I just bought too.

*Translation: test
**Not to mention, it is REALLY nice to have some extra money around here. Makes saving up for my April-May travels that much easier!
***Countdown to 24: 4 days. Oh god, I feel the wrinkles setting in now!