Mamma Mia, Italia!

Getting up at 7am in Nice, France, we boarded a short regional train to take us across the border to Italy. During the train ride, we met a couple from Tazmania that were going to Cinque Terre as well and without saying so, we all decided to hang together for the rest of the day. Going to Ventimiglia, then Genoa, we were finally on the last train which was taking us to Riomaggiore (the last of the five Cinque Terre villages). We might have been on the train for about ten minutes when an elderly man in a suit came up to Alie and I. Noticing I had my feet on the seat and thinking that he wanted to sit down, I took my feet down and showed with my hands that he could sit there. He shook his head and instead said “tickets”. We hastily showed him our tickets, at which point he began quickly talking in italian, obviously telling us there was something wrong with our tickets. We kept repeating “sorry, we don’t know what you are saying”, until finally in fairly broken English he said that our tickets were not validated. Not knowing we had to validate these tickets, we said we would get off the train at the next stop and put them through the machine. However, he did not wait for the next stop and immediately said “50 euros” – the fine for two unvalidated tickets. 

All at once, the five Italian commuters sitting around us started yelling at him. Neither of us know Italian, but I can pick up a few words here and there because of the similarity to French. What did I pick up? Tourists, English, not fair. These five locals, who did not know us from Adam, were trying to prevent us from paying the fine! The conductor looked ambushed but kept fighting back, while Alie and I wrestled up the euros to give to him. The woman sat beside us turned to us and said, “You didn’t know you had to validate, right? Make sure you get a receipt so he doesn’t pocket the money!” A moment later, he took back our tickets and hand validated them, meaning that the fifty euros we had prepared went back in our wallets.  Because we were traveling with the Tazmanians, we got the same deal for them. I will never forget that moment, when five boisterous Italians stuck their necks out for us. As each of them left the train to their various destinations, we couldn’t help but repeat “grazie” several times with huge smiles of appreciation.

Besides this minor detail, the train ride was absolutely gorgeous – it’s maybe my favorite train journey that I have done in Europe thus far. It follows the coast, so you get to see small coast town after small coast town, with the sunshine shimmering on the Mediterranean the entire way. Once we arrived in Riomaggiore, we found the hostel office and he said to follow him up a few stairs. Few was definitely an understatement. We were staying at nearly the highest point in Riomaggiore, so when we went up one row of stairs, another would appear. Once we got settled and changed, we headed back out to do some hiking. Hiking through the Cinque Terre villages is a well-known tourist attraction, people come from far and wide to hike these magnificent trails that promise stunning views of the coastline and the villages. Since the next day it was supposed to rain, we set off in the late afternoon to make the most out of a beautiful sunny day. We were disappointed to hear that only one hiking trail was open – many were closed due to landslides that have been occurring in the area. Nevertheless, we took the first regional train to Vernazza and headed off onto the trail to Monterosso.

Hiking this trail was easily in my top five things I have done this experience abroad. With the sun shining on the clear blue water contrasting against the bountiful green earth, words and pictures truly do not do it justice. It is something that you have to do yourself to experience its beauty.

Vernazza

When were reaching Monterosso (the end of the trail), we vaguely heard upbeat, Italian music and a woman loudly speaking a mix of English and Spanish. We looked down to find a man who cut a hole in the fence of his vineyard and was selling his freshly made wines, limoncello and lemonade. And the woman? Her name was Joann and she hailed from DC, and she convinced us to buy a lemonade and chat with her awhile. To say that this was a pinnacle moment of our whole whirlwind trip through Europe would be an understatement – we were quoting Joann throughout the remainder of our travels.* Those are the moments you will always remember: the interesting people you meet while you are traveling all over the world. After exchanging e-mails, we continued on our way, reaching Monterosso just as the sun was setting. We ran out into the water, feeling like kids as we joyfully reflected on such an amazing day.

Our pre-Joann view of the vineyard

HAPPY

We took a train back to Riomaggiore and had what is a huge fad in this part of Italy: a fried cone of goodness! We went for fried calamari and fries and topped it off with a necessary gelato for dessert. We slept well and woke up to the sound of rain outside. Not feeling eager to walk through its wetness, we slept in and convinced ourselves to go outside and explore the other villages by train. When we arrived in Monterosso, it had blustering wind and was raining. Needless to say, we hopped the next train to Vernazza. It might have had something to do with the fact that the sun came out, but Vernazza was definitely my favorite out of the five villages - the most picturesque and the most things to do. And it helps that the hiking trail from Vernazza to Monterosso is regarded as the best.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Corniglia and Manarola, both beautiful in their own ways, and then headed back to Riomaggiore. This was already our last day in town, and I was left wishing we had more time and better weather conditions to hike between all the villages. Nevertheless, I had a traditional Italian dinner of spaghetti and tiramisu and got to bed early for a full day of train travel the following day.

View from Manarola

It was May 1^st and we woke up early to catch the first train to Pisa. I knew that this day was a huge holiday in France but I was wondering how it was going to be in Italy. Once arriving in Pisa, we went to ask about the bus that takes you directly to the leaning tower. The woman shook her head and simply said “not running”, it was the holiday. So, we set off on foot and walked through Pisa to find its crowning glory. Walking down the street and seeing the leaning tower at the end was kind of a surreal experience – it was REALLY leaning! I didn’t expect it to be so dramatic! We of course stopped and took all the obligatory photos, had a nice pizza margarhita lunch and then hustled back to the station for our four hour train ride to Milan.

Being a super tourist yet again

Upon arrival in Milan, we took the metro and found our hostel, which was more like a BnB on the seventh floor of an apartment building. Once we paid, we explained we had one night and asked for the best way to get to the Duomo, the number one thing to see in Milano. They explained to us the metro routes but then said that the metros would be closing in 25 minutes because of the holiday. Taking this as our cue, we hustled off to the metro and came up in the bustling center of Milan. The Duomo di Milano was just as amazing as everyone describes, very intricate, with every single detail showing its beauty. Then, we took our last night in Italy to eat all of the things we hadn’t gotten a chance to yet: cannoli, gnocchi.. and of course one last gelato. I mean, when in Italy!

Duomo of Milan

After standing in the taxi line for half an hour, we shared a taxi back to the hostel, which brought back the memories I had of horrible Italian driving. Leaving Italy the following morning was kind of sad. Italy is one of the countries that I feel oddly at home in – I don’t know the language, though I have seen almost every major place in the country. I feel comfortable there. And their food is downright delicious! I know that whenever I want to come back again, Italia will be there with open arms, welcoming me with two big scoops of gelato and a shot of limoncello. Ciao for now!

*Our favorite quote? “Girls, marry with potential. FINANCIAL POTENTIAL.” She had maybe a 

few glasses of wine……

An end is just another beginning

I never thought this day would come so quickly. Today, I taught my last classes, which means my contract as an English Teaching Assistant in France is completed. I am feeling so many emotions right, but if I had to put it in just one word: bittersweet.

This entire week has been a whirlwind of goodbye classes, giving goodbye gifts, and the never ending process of trying to close accounts down. I am happy to say that everything is now in the process of being closed* which brings the stress of the end of this experience way down. Now, I can enjoy my last few days here, before traveling all around Europe.

Monday, I had my last lessons at the business where I gave conversation lessons. I wrote each of the adults a nice card and brought chocolate to celebrate. When they came in and saw this, they said "Good, we got something for you too!" and presented me with hand-crafted lavender oil from here in Provence. They said it was a souvenir to remember this region and them - surely I will never forget their kindness! As I said goodbye to my boss's wife and dog, while all of us had a little bit of tears in our eyes, I finally realized how amazing that opportunity was. To teach at such a small business which made me feel like a part of their family was an unforgettable experience. As I exchanged les bises with my boss at the end of our last car ride together, I continued to thank him for everything he has done for me and promised to contact him when I return to Provence after my travels, so that we could maybe get together for a lunch or something. Even though I realize this might not happen, the invitation is just another example of the quality of people I have met here: they are some of the friendliest and welcoming people I know.

Tuesday brought a large surprise: an organized goûter in one of my favorite classes! As we sat around eating sweets that all the students had prepared and talked about my future and their futures, I realize how much I have made an impact on some of my students. They presented me with a sheet of paper with lovely goodbye messages, some so touching that I again was holding back tears. For my second class of the afternoon, we saw my house on Google Earth, which was weird and somewhat comforting to realize that I will be going back there soon. As I said goodbye to this class, another favorite, I couldn't help but well up yet again, saying that maybe we may see each other again, yet knowing in my heart that it won't happen. That is when Marc turned to me and said something I will never forget, "An end is just another beginning."  At this point, I was about to boil over as he had tears in eyes too.

After class, Cathy took me somewhere that we have tried again and again to go to together: Rustrel, also known as le Colorado Provençal. It was finally a perfect day to go so we set off with her dog Fluffy in tow. We wandered around the red rock formations of this wonderful site, which also included a small waterfall and a desert area nicknamed le Sahara. Although it was no Grand Canyon, I could see why everyone said I needed to visit this site before I left - it was absolutely incredible to take in. It was such a nice way to spend a beautiful afternoon, speaking in French with my coordinating teacher, reflecting on this entire experience together. At the end, I gave her the card and gift for her and her husband and tried to get out a simple "merci" without crying. When I explained that it is difficult for me to think about leaving, she said, "But you can always come back! You will always have a place to stay with us!" Again, the overwhelming kindness of the people here never ceases to amaze me - I will be back.

Wednesday brought more goodbye classes but one was special in particular: my private lesson with a student in Seconde. As we have been having guided conversations in these lessons, I thought I would try something different and just see if we could carry on a conversation for two hours with no prompts. We can and did, which goes to show how much better this student's English has become. As I gave her a card with my contact information and chocolate, I said that she could come and visit me whenever she wanted, so she could experience America, or write to me. As I went to hug her goodbye, she decided to give les bises and said to me "Here in Provence, we do three [kisses]!" I replied, "I know, I was giving you an American goodbye: a hug!"

Thursday included my last three classes. As none of these classes were my favorite ones, I hate to say my last day of teaching was less than climactic. However, there were 2 more organized parties with more nice goodbye notes - one class even wrote completely in English! After one more private lesson after school, Amy and I got a ride from Cathy and Marc to a soirée that was hosted in our honor at Veronique's house. It was wonderful to have one last time together, with my teachers as well as Amy, to celebrate an amazing seven months together. There was a moment of stress, as Amy and I were prompted to give an impromptu speech: a description of positives and negatives of our experience in Apt in French to a room full of native speaking teachers AND administrators staring at us. If I didn't mention it before, I am kind of terrified of public speaking. Nevertheless, after we spoke they all said how impressed they were with how well we speak and our accent, so I guess we have improved from being here! We spent the rest of the night drinking wine and champagne while munching on pizza, quiche, veggies, tartes and cakes. My teachers even surprised me with two other amazing keepsakes: a book about the Luberon (filled with amazing pictures of this region) and a French novel that is a thriller and written by a man who is from this region and places the story here as well. I cannot explain how grateful I am to have had such welcoming and friendly teachers to work with, and I plan to keep in contact with them after I return to the states. Ils vont me manquer!** As we all exchanged les bises and said goodbye, it was pretty hard to leave, knowing that the assistantship is officially over.

Amy and I and all the English teachers I worked with! From left to right: Amy, Veronique, Marc, Cathy, Isabelle and Me.

As I sit here on this late Thursday night contemplating all that was, I can't help but have tears welling up in my eyes. I have not fully gotten upset yet***, as it still doesn't feel like the end - I am sure that I will not realize it until later. Amy leaves for Annecy in the morning, meaning that this is our last time in the apartment together, after sharing it for nearly seven months. Although I will go tomorrow morning to pick up Allie from Avignon TGV and will spend the next four weeks traveling around with her, it is going to be weird to be here without my British compatriate - I will miss her! How seven months can go by so quickly, I will never understand. As I am having trouble truly (and succinctly) putting into words what the assistantship meant to me, I am going to try to put it into three simple words: c'était incroyable - it was incredible.

And now, onto another beginning!

*That is, once I mail my phone and already written lettre de résliation on Saturday to Virgin Mobile.
**Translation: I will miss them!

***That might not be true - when I started writing this Wednesday, I might have sobbed like a blubbering idiot. But reporting from Thursday night: I am fine (at the moment).

Climb Every Mountain

This morning, the rays coming through the window as I write this post, along with the sound of the rushing river below, puts me in a state of sheer bliss. This Monday morning sans teaching was just what I needed to reflect on what a great weekend I had.

A very Valentine's sunset Friday night

Saturday morning, Amy, Alison and I awoke early and took the windy two hour bus to Aix-en-Provence. Although we have taken this bus before, so we were warned about how queasy our stomachs can get, I thought it wouldn’t be a problem this time. I was wrong – the whole morning ride there I was clenching my stomach, hoping I would not get sick. But because I was awake the entire time, I did get to see the breathtaking sunrise over the Provencal countryside.

Sunrise

Once back on our feet, we walked through town to have a nice sit down breakfast at le pain quotidien. It was such a wonderful morning, and very different from the last time we visited – sunny blue skies with warm temperatures and a nice dose of wind. I enjoyed a croissant and chocolat chaud, which sounds like a simple meal but of all of the hot chocolates I have tried here in France, this one was by far the best.*

After checking in at the tourist office for bus schedules and information, we were off to la Montagne Sainte-Victoire, the inspiration for many of Paul Cezanne’s masterpieces. We thought we had come prepared, armed with sneakers and good walking clothes. However, at the tourist office when I was asking for information, the woman looked me up and down and asked “Et tu es bien equipé?”** As we began our hike to one of the highest points of the mountain, it became increasingly clear that we were not really as equipé as we thought. The rocks were quite slippery to the step, promising that one wrong move or slip could send you rolling down the mountain. The journey might have been better with hiking boots and walking sticks, as the many men that passed us came prepared with. The hike was supposed to take 2.5 hours to the Croix de Provence but after an hour of hiking, we decided to stop on the side of the mountain.

View from where we ate lunch

Once we had taken in this view, we noticed that the wind appeared to be getting stronger but still wanted to make it to our end destination. So we set off prepared to get to the top. We must have gotten only 5 steps up and the wind instantly overtook me and hurled me to the ground. I called to the other girls, saying that although I wanted to get to the top, as it has been something I wanted to do for a long time, it might not be worth it if I just got blown over. They agreed and we decided to stop and take some obligatory shots with the mountain and then headed back down.

The mount on the left is where we ate lunch and the summit on the right is one of the high points of the mountain, where you can find the Cross of Provence

At the bottom of the hike, there was a lovely lake called Lac de Bimont where we enjoyed just relaxing and looking out over its beautiful blue water. After a hike, it was a lovely spot to just rest and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Then we headed back into town, enjoyed a nice drink at a café, walked through some shops (where I might have bought myself a new Longchamp bag as a belated birthday gift…) and munched on a nutella and banana crêpe. As the sun was going down, we boarded the bus back to Apt, which was actually much appreciated to sit after a long day of hiking and exploring. Feeling ultimate laziness, I grabbed a pizza from my favorite place here in town, as I didn’t feel like making anything. I chatted with the pizza maker Xavier about my day, how I like Apt and differences between here and America. It is nice that I can have a casual conversation like this with a total stranger and we can understand each other, plus I am continually surprised and delighted with how friendly people are here in Apt. After eating, I tucked in early for the night, my muscles tired and my heart full of happiness.

I took it easy Sunday and did some cleaning and planning, still thinking about the amazing day I had the day before. I cannot describe the amazing view from the hike and I am so happy I pushed myself to do something that I have wanted to do for so long. Although we didn’t get to the top, I always know that it is about the journey and not the destination. And let me tell you, that journey was incredible - it is a trip I will always remember.

*And since I don’t drink coffee, I have tried a LOT of hot chocolate here. I am basically an expert.

**Translation: And you are equipped? In other words, she was asking if I was ready for how difficult the hike would be.

Sunshine, feelin' fine

Happy Monday from the beautiful South of France! As I didn't have to teach this morning, I have thoroughly enjoyed my morning reading, exercising, organizing the cabinet full of old lesson plans (and getting more ideas for future classes), and laying out under the sun in the common area of the apartment. Thats right, Friday was just the beginning - I have opened up the windows every morning this weekend and gotten a little sun. I might just have a little tan by the time my birthday rolls around.*

This weekend was a much needed relaxing break. I decided to not go anywhere and just hang around Apt and the apartment. As I was starting to feel a little ill during the week, this was just what I needed to get myself feeling good as new. I had a lot of time to myself to just relax, sleep, read, watch How I Met Your Mother and watch movies. It felt like I was at home for the first time in a long time - although I love traveling and living in a foreign country, at times it can be tiring. I am glad that I took a break this weekend and just took a breath.

Friday night, I went and saw the Secret Life of Walter Mitty. It was completely different than I had expected to be and caused me to think and reflect on traveling in a completely new way. Now, more than ever, I want to go and see the world - being here has definitely bitten me with the travel bug! I find myself daydreaming of far off places and making tentative plans in my future. What this experience has taught me is that if you want to make it happen, you have to be active in pursuing your goals. I can say that I want to travel to Machu Picchu in the future and list it as a dream in my head, but I know now that if you want to go somewhere, just make the plans to do it! You will never regret your decision to see a new place, no matter how much money it costs to get there.**

Feeling like I needed to get out of the apartment for a bit on Saturday, with Walter Mitty's spontaneity on my mind, I decided to go out for a walk on the cycling track with camera in tow. Maybe walk is not an appropriate word, I should say hike. I had never explored this part of town, and especially by myself I sometimes get wary. But I found this to be such a nice and peaceful walk, with beautiful views spanning over the city, that I did not mind the weird looks I got from passersby. It also proved to be some great exercise, climbing a huge flight of stairs after walking for an hour on the trail left me a little out of breath - not just from the activity but from the gorgeous sight at the top of the hill.

Told you there was a lot of stairs....

Saturday night, I enjoyed a dinner made from the new crockpot - honey sesame chicken with rice. Coupled with a great Bordeaux, I settled in and watched Chocolat, a movie I have seen before but realized how much I enjoy it now - with its setting predominately showing the culture of provincial French towns. As I now have much experience living in one of these towns, I related very much to the subject.

Yes, that is Barney Stinson in the background. I might have watched some How I Met Your Mother too...

With my lazy weekend over, it is time to start another week of teaching - filled with new lessons like role-playing the 3 little pigs. This rest was just what I needed, and now I am geared up for another sunny week here in Provence.

*Side note: I CAN NOT believe I turn 24 in 9 days. Cue quarter life crises right.... now.
**Plus, there are super affordable ways to travel out there - don't let money get in the way of your goals!