La vie francaise, tu me manqueras

After posting a list of the negative of living here, I can only post a list of things that I will miss about this place. It is hard to think that this is my last night in such a wonderful place that I have made into my little French home, but reflecting on all these amazing things makes my heart happy to have had this experience rather than sad about leaving.

Things I will miss about France

FOOD. Petit Ecolier cookies, pain au chocolat, fresh baguette (specifically tradition francaise from caracteres boulangerie), muesli au chocolat, green olive tapenade, croissants, orangina, duck. These are just what I could remember - really though, food here is just amazing! Including the way people eat and appreciate food, sitting down for three course meals for several hours at a time.

Fresh fruits and vegetables easily accessible. This goes along with the food idea - I am going to miss picking up fruits and veggies and knowing they came from local producers.

The weather. Constant blue skies and sunshine and a warm climate, with 300 days of sunshine a year. Don't be surprised if I go through seasonal affective disorder coming back to Michigan...

The friendly provencal “bonjour” I receive as I walk down the street. I swear, most days I feel like Belle from Beauty and the Beast. I will miss walking down the street and seeing people I know (students, teachers, etc.) but also greeting all the people I don't know. Whether you're stranger or friend, here in small town Provence, you always offer a big "bonjour!"

Hearing French everyday. Though sometimes all I wanted to hear was English, I have gotten so used to hearing this lovely language being spoken by its locals. It is rare to here in America, and I will miss it.

Being able to speak French everyday. When I arrived here, I was so scared to use the language. Unsure of myself and worried, I thought I would never improve my speaking skills, let alone enjoy speaking without huge amounts of anxiety. Now, I can say I truly enjoy speaking French, and am not worried so much about the mistakes I make when I speak - we are all human.

Provence sunrises. Opening up my blinds each morning to the sun peeking over the trees. Pure bliss. 

Hiking to a nearby village, or two, all in one day. Again, the perks of living in the Luberon.

The colors of Provencal architecture. The beautiful rusty orange, weathered taupe, musky coral buildings with periwinkle blue shutters

Street musicians constantly performing their craft. It wouldn't be a normal day if you didn't hear a lone accordion or a man strumming his guitar and singing songs.

SATURDAY MARKETS. Guys, I just really love markets. Especially Saturday markets in Apt. For a city that most times appears so dead, one would not know this on market day, where you have to shove through a seas of people to get anywhere. I will miss walking around with my straw basket, buying fresh produce and fish as well as other trinkets.

Cheap, but delicious, wine. Noone can go wrong with a 1.50 euro bottle of Cotes du Rhone!

Cheap, but delicious, seafood. Not always so cheap, but always so fresh!

French books for a euro. I have found so many great reads for so cheap, wish that the only option at home was ordering from Amazon.

Being able to hop on a train or plane and three hours later be in a different country. The ability to travel to an entire different culture in a very small amount of time. 

The ease and accessibility of train travel. America, when are you gonna step up your train game?!

History everywhere, within everything. They really know how to appreciate old things here, rather than the new always being so important in the States.

The rolling hills of the Luberon. Filled with vineyards and hillside villages

2 euro bus rides going up to 60 miles away. That's a good deal!

Ummm all boulangeries and patisseries. And all their amazing goodies. See my first item about food.

Not having a full work week. Having classes cancelled constantly, working 12 hours (but mostly less) per week.

Giving private English lessons. I really enjoyed giving private lessons this year. I feel like I have a huge strength in working with students on a one-to-one basis and plan to keep in contact with each of my students in the future!

Planning one lesson per week. Rather than the 15 to prepare a week as a French teacher in the US. Though I do admit, repeating one lesson 15 times got a little monotonous....

The people. Many of my fellow teachers, students, parents, friends have asked me what is the number one thing I will miss about living in France. My answer has always been this: the people I have met. Whether it was my French colleagues and students or the assistants I met from America and other countries, these people were so friendly and welcoming, helping me to feel at home in a place that was miles away from my comfort zone. Because of them, I was able to grow into the person I am today - more independent, self-assured, globally aware, and confident. Merci beaucoup to all of the amazing people I met here (and also to all of the amazing support I got from home!).

I don't know what my future has in store for me - when I look out on to the horizon, all I see is a hazy vision of a road ahead. Before this experience, that might have scared me; I was always one step ahead with planning my own life. But now, I know that it will be alright - things will fall into place as they should. All I have to do is take the next step. Merci bien, France, for leading me down this road, but now I think it's time for me to take a different path. I will be back someday and even though I don't know when that will be, I know I will come back to you, like seeing an old friend after a long time apart. Au revoir, mon amie - and thank you for everything.

France, you really suck sometimes

As tonight is my last night in France, I am really starting to reflect on my time here. Many of my friends/family know that my eight months here was no walk in the park - there were several times where I was so frustrated about living here that all I wanted to do was leave. I have kept a running list of these frustrating items of culture and am posting it below. **Please note: this is a list derived from my personal experiences living in France. I understand these items might have been due to my location in a rural town in Provence and that other people living in other regions may not have had these annoyances.**

Things I will not miss about France

PAPERWORK. Everything here requires a form, and I mean everything. Not only that, but specified documentation for each form as well. Just to open an internet contract, you need a copy of proof of identity, a RIB from your bank proving you have a bank account and a copy of your proof of housing. And then to shut down accounts, you must send a recommended letter to the company - you can't just go into a branch office and say you want to terminate your account. Lots of useless papers, all the time.

 

DISORGANIZATION. I find this to be directly connected with the laid-back attitude that the French have about life. I find it funny that so much paperwork and forms are demanded, because once your give all these items, don't be surprised when it takes two months to process them.

Strikes. Whenever they feel like it. Teachers, transportation, etc. I will be happy to get back to a place where strikes are not so commonplace.

Lack of communication. Specifically in my case, classes being cancelled without one word to me about it. I would show up and wait outside the classroom to see no students and no teacher. 

Nothing being open. Ever. It is a general European standard that everything is closed on Sunday. I can deal with that. But after much research, I have noticed many things closed Monday and Wednesday as well. And most times you can't even trust the hours they have posted on the shops. For example, today, my last day in town, I went to a resale shop to sell some DVDs. The sign said that it should have been open, but it wasn't. I guess I never figured out the schedule of all the shops here. 

NO WIFI. Ok that is an exaggeration - there are now three establishments in Apt that offer free Wifi. If it works. Again, just today I went to my favorite Wifi hole, and it didn't work. Beyond that, internet here costs a ton, and you pay by the usage!

Having to take public transportation to get anywhere/not having a car. This was just my personal experience living in small town France but relying on eight buses a day to get anywhere kind of gets old.

 

Not being to find my shoe size ANYWHERE. Any 42s up  in here? I have been told here that my shoe size is for men.

Taking 2 weeks to get something done that could have gotten done in one day. It’s France’s law.

Poop on the sidewalks. Everywhere. Is it so hard to clean up after your animal?!

The weird hairstyles of French men. Especially the weird version of the undercut hairstyle - only works for Macklemore, dudes. 

Needless to say, I won't be missing these things when I return to the U.S. Happy to say au revoir to these petites choses!

Differences between American and French schools

As I am nearly done with my job as an English teaching assistant in France, I want to share some cultural differences between American and French education that I have noticed while I have been working at a French high school (lycée). These are all generalizations and they are all from my personal experiences and perspective. I am not saying that these are the 'end all be all', and some are my opinions. Either way, have a look at my view of l'education française!

1. Schedule. In France, school runs from 8-5, Monday-Friday (and sometimes Saturdays), but has Wednesdays off (in most schools, but in mine Wednesday morning classes still happen). There is a 1.5 hour break in the middle of the day for lunch, and two 15 minute coffee breaks (called récreation) during the morning and afternoon as well. Also, classes rotate every other week; they operate on a semaine A and semaine B format.
  
2. Vacation. There are lots of vacations throughout the year: around every 6 weeks, there is a two week vacation. However, school runs until the first week of July and starts again the first week of September, only a 2 month summer vacation.

3. Food. No food in class. Period. Only exception I saw of this is when they are celebrating an assistant leaving. ("Rebecca, est-ce qu'on peut avoir un 'tit gôuter?!?"* = the response of all of my students when I said I would be leaving)

4. Politesse. In many of my classes, I have noticed that there is no seating chart for the class. However, everyone must stand until being told to sit at the beginning of class. It is to show la politesse, politeness. Also, classes must wait until a teacher asks them to enter the classroom, they stand in the hallway and wait between classes until the teacher is ready and says so.

5. Substitutes. When a teacher is sick/absent, there are rarely substitutes. Class is normally just cancelled. Exception: when a teacher is gone for maternity/paternity leave, a remplacant is found. However, sometimes there is a delay to find this teacher, and during the delay class does not meet. In my case, it took them two weeks to find a replacement teacher for one of my colleagues and during those two weeks, class didn't meet. What did students do you ask? Hang out in the courtyard. Or go to a nearby cafe and enjoy a drink. They can do whatever, no one watches them.

6. Lessons. Lesson plans are not as organized persay: no anticipatory set, presentation of information, guided practice, individual practice. Sometimes, I found them quite hard to follow. Whether that means that they are more/less effective, who’s to say! French students are known for being very intelligent, but I have found that to be because of self-led intrinsic motivation mostly.

8. Conversations during class: Students are generally louder, talk over teachers and carry on conversations during class. Even when told to be quiet or given punishment, I have seen that in general, students will continue to talk to one another.

9. Le Provencal quart d'heure: Being late to class is not a big deal, either if you are a student or teacher. This might be just an aspect of Provence culture seeping in, I have heard it is different in other regions. But here, expect le Provençal quart d'heure - the fact that anyone or anything might be at least 15 minutes late.

10. Utenstils ready. Every student carries pencil cases and graph paper - lined paper doesn’t really exist here (at least I haven't found it anywhere). Students are extremely organized in this realm.
  
11. PDA. Everywhere. And no one controls it. Once one of my colleagues pointed at two young ones going at it and said "This is disgusting! Does this happen in America?" When I explained no, she seemed even more upset, yet didn't go up to the students and tell them to stop.

12. Strikes. Teachers decide to strike. A lot. And when they strike, there is no class.

13. Professional Dress. Most teachers wear jeans and sweaters to class, rarely do they “dress up” persay. There are some that wear skirts and dresses, but I have never seen a man in a tie. Maybe a button up shirt, once.

14. Classrooms. In France, teachers don't have their own classrooms. Since teachers schedules vary, they do not have a set classroom and must switch between several rooms between classes. It kind of operates like a university in this sense. I am not a fan of this difference - I would miss having my own classroom! I think it really makes a difference in making a comfortable and inviting place to learn, filled with useful tools to help with teaching. Or just cool pictures, French posters and French flags hanging everywhere.

15. Mock exams. I have never experienced so many practice exams for a standardized test in my life. Here in France, they have an exam called the BAC that terminale (senior-aged students in America) students take at the end of the year. The BAC exam is extremely important, if they don't pass the BAC they don't get their diploma and can't go to university.

16. Free (or really cheap) University. To add an incentive for students to do well on the BAC, as long as they pass the BAC, they can go to university for free, or nearly free. That's pretty good, ouias?! When I told my students that 12,000 dollars per year is not extravagant for university in America, their jaws dropped. They said that 12,000 euros pays the tuition for the highest institutions in France. Quelle difference!

17.  Grading. Grades here are given out of 20, and it is EXTREMELY rare that someone will get a 20. Or 17-19. It is considered a great grade if you got a 13 and a 15 is exceptional. As an American, this shocks me 13/20 = 65%, which is a D. That's considered a good grade?! Teachers are very particular and don't give high grades for anything. Also, grades are sometimes announced in front of the class, so everyone hears each other’s grades. The first time I experienced this was during my study abroad, when our presentation grades were listed off for everyone to know. I guess there is no sensitivity or privacy in this manner here.

 I am sure there are many more things that I did not cover, but these are the ones that struck me the most. Though there are positives and negatives to both systems, I am happy to be returning to the American education system, where I feel more at home. Though there will be less breaks and vacations, I think somehow I can manage. 

*Translation: Rebecca, can we have a little snack?! It's like our version of, "Can we have a party?!"

La vie est comme un fruit….

Another week and weekend has come and gone. With the limited time that I have left here, I can’t help but starting to feel a little melancholic about this whole experience. Though there have been some hard days, and times where I have missed home so much, I cannot begin to describe how weird it will be to pack up and leave here. For good. I have to be careful when I say this around my teachers, who have realized that I have three weeks left teaching and have asked me how I feel about it. This leads to a very nostalgic discussion: I am so excited to get home to be with my family and friends, but again, there’s something about la France and particularly la Provence that always calls me back. When I say to them that it’s weird to think I will never be back in Apt, their response is always a smile with a sly “on sait jamais!”- you never know! Then, we proceeded to talk about my constant worry once I return to the states: trouver un boulot*. Getting a teaching job in France is completely different than getting one in the states – you don’t even have an interview most times! Just fill out an online application and they send you an e-mail telling you whether you got the job or not. Say what?! They even told me they wished there was an interview process. I just don’t understand that – how can you be sure that someone is an adequate educator without ever meeting them? Bizarre, bizarre…. 

With my limited time left here, I have been trying to overload on everything français, from reading Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets in French to watching How I Met Your Mother in French to pushing myself into random conversations with teachers, workers at the school, shop owners and servers at the restaurant, I realize that I have limited time to continue to practice the language in a native place. Plus, it helps that wherever I go, random strangers on the street will always flash me a smile and dit a little “bonjour!” That’s small town France for you!**

Another sunset view from the Apt apt. (yes, my Apt apartment)

I even pushed myself to do something that any foreign language speaker knows is hard and nerve-racking task: talk on the phone in French. I know what you are thinking, I speak French… so why can’t I do it on the phone?! Many factors affect this (not being able to see the person, body language, bad phone connection leaving voices to be mumbled and incomprehensible, etc),  but it is one of the hardest skills to master in my opinion. For shutting down all of my accounts, it was necessary for me to speak to the customer service of each one of my providers, to get information on how to go about doing this. Unfortunately, all these companies in France have their employees sign contracts where they cannot speak in English to help customers - even when they are having trouble understanding and you might be able to help them better in another language. Only French conversations can be had. Knowing this in advance, I prepared myself and hoped that this conversation would go as smoothly as one I would have with someone at a store. My phone call with SFR (my internet company) was as seamless as could be – she could understand me, and I could understand her. It was actually quite a lovely conversation. After that, with my spirits lifted, I decided to call Virgin (my phone company). This conversation was a little bumpier, but still a lot better than how it would have been when I first arrived! Either way, getting over that feeling of being timid is hard for me – in English and even more in a foreign language! I am more than proud of what I have accomplished and continue to accomplish as I grow within this language.

I took advantage of this weekend being my last true weekend “at home” in Apt. On Friday, I spent the day laying out and cleaning. I did venture out of the apartment to get some new movies and stop to get some kebab. After a nice conversation with the owner, I got out my money to pay for my meal and he told me “non, non, mademoiselle, c’est mon cadeau pour toi!”*** Though I felt weird about this, he insisted, reminding me of the little town atmosphere this place has and how a little conversation can go a long way. Then, like a true American, I went to the theater and watched Monuments Men. What a great film, filled with patriotism and a little bit of Matt Damon speaking French (albeit a little rough pronunciation, but still)! I couldn’t help but cry for my homeland a bit…

It's okay, Matt - sometimes I screw up French too!

Saturday, I went to the market for one of the last times. I ran into many students, and one of the teachers I work with, Marc. Again, these are only things that can happen in such a small town as this – I can never go anywhere without seeing a teacher or students from the lycée. Also, I heard A LOT of other Anglophones around, lots of Brits and Americans. Tourist season must be starting in Provence! With all the things I bought, I might have had a near anxiety attack and quickly did a test-pack of everything I have here… needless to say I haven’t done my April-May travels and with two checked bags, I am still overweight…. guess I will be shipping some things home! Then, I enjoyed a nice light dinner and watched A Good Year, filmed right here in the Luberon in Provence. I recognized many of the panoramic views of the little, hillside villages that are on my stomping grounds, including Gordes, Bonnieux, and Lacoste. But what was surprising was at the very end, while the credits rolled, they listed a special thanks to the people living in all of the towns that were filmed in the movie. I was more than surprised to see little, unexceptional Apt on the list! Now I will have to rewatch that movie a few more times and try to pinpoint which scene/s where filmed here in my French home.

And Marion Cotillard is in it - a fav French actress. Need I say more?

Sunday, one of my private lesson clients Laure and her husband Julien took me to the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Though I had visited this wonderful town before, through their knowledge and guidance, I saw it through completely different eyes. I learned so much about la Venise Provencal****, walking through antique shop after antique shop, and vendor after vendor in the marché. Before going today, I was not sure whether we would speak in English or in French together, as all of our communication up until now has been in English. It was a welcomed change to be expected to speak in French, even when at times I had difficulty in expressing my ideas, they would help me with giving me a new expression or words to use. Even so, these moments didn’t happen too frequently, meaning that my time from 9am-5pm was nearly entirely spoken in French. I know that many of my readers might be saying “Becca, you live in France – isn’t this something you do everyday?” The simple answer: no. Since I am required to speak English with students at work, and with the professors when in front of students, I mostly have found that I go some days speaking English more than French. Although I have had several opportunities to speak through meals and other gatherings with my teachers, this was a nice change as it was different people with different accents, for quite a long period of time. Their generosity and kindness was something that I hadn’t expected, et je ne l’oublierai jamais – I will never forget it!

Antiques everywhere!

We saw many pairs of these lions statues flanked at the doorways of the antiquaires. They explained to me that in ancient times these were used as guardians at the doors almost, portraying the fierceness of the nobility/people that lived inside of the buildings.

La Sorgue!

Laure and I in front of the many water wheels, or roules, that are scattered throughout Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

The emblem of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with its latin motto which when translated means the city holds strong against enemies.

Notre Dame des Anges - the church. We peeked in so I could get a look, even though there was a service happening, what a beautiful interior!

More antiquing along the Sorgue - anyone want a cup of tea on the dining set in the water on the right there?

La Sorgue est partout!

They took me to a lovely Chinese restaurant, which is honestly something I have been craving for a long time, as the one in Apt is SUPER expensive (and kinda sketchy looking) so I haven’t tried it. So when they said they felt bad because they didn’t take me to somewhere typically French, I said it is no problem. After, we went to their beautiful home and met their dog Uta, further making this day more amazing, as I got to have play time with un chien! After, they took me to a park where the Sorgue river splits into two parts, a well-known place called le Partage des Eaux. After, we headed up a windy, skinny road deep in the countryside and visited the village of Saumane-de-Vaucluse. Known for a chateau that is privately owned at the top of the village, it boasts magnificent views over the countryside while keeping its quaint, white-washed stone houses stacked in solemnity on the hillside. I had never heard of this village before, and after today I can say I discovered a new coin de Provence.

I can't tell you how many ducks I saw today, and all in twos! I guess that is the custom: as it is almost time for the mama ducks to give birth, the daddy ducks stay with them to help with the ducklings. It's bizarre I didn't manage to get both in the picture....

Le Partage des Eaux

Walking up to the village was beautiful, seeing the layered white rock flanking the hillside. Laure and Julien explained to me that some people have carved their houses into this type of rock, their house actually a part of the hillside. I didn't really believe them... until we saw one on the drive back to Apt. Unfortunately, didn't get a picture of that.

Best shot I could get of the privately-owned chateau

Saumane-de-Vaucluse

After such a wonderful day, it was hard for me to say goodbye and to adequately thank them for how much today meant to me. I think it is hard for people to realize how lonely it can be to come to a foreign country, knowing no one, not having a car, and to try and be able to make connections with people and do things. Today, I felt like I was somewhat part of French everyday life, and it will be a day that I will remember forever.

 

Now, onto another 3 weeks of teaching!

*Translation: to find a job. Woof.

**Recall: In a previous post of when I first arrived, I talked about how I feel like Belle from Beauty and the Beast with everyone shouting “Bonjour” at me as I walk through town. That welcoming feeling has not gone away, and will be one of the things I miss most when returning home to the states.

***Translation: No no miss, this is my gift to you! As you can imagine, I was torn between feeling grateful and wondering if he had put something in my food….

****They call this the Venice of Provence because the river Sorgue that runs through the town forms many canals in the alleyways between the buildings.