La vie est comme un fruit….

Another week and weekend has come and gone. With the limited time that I have left here, I can’t help but starting to feel a little melancholic about this whole experience. Though there have been some hard days, and times where I have missed home so much, I cannot begin to describe how weird it will be to pack up and leave here. For good. I have to be careful when I say this around my teachers, who have realized that I have three weeks left teaching and have asked me how I feel about it. This leads to a very nostalgic discussion: I am so excited to get home to be with my family and friends, but again, there’s something about la France and particularly la Provence that always calls me back. When I say to them that it’s weird to think I will never be back in Apt, their response is always a smile with a sly “on sait jamais!”- you never know! Then, we proceeded to talk about my constant worry once I return to the states: trouver un boulot*. Getting a teaching job in France is completely different than getting one in the states – you don’t even have an interview most times! Just fill out an online application and they send you an e-mail telling you whether you got the job or not. Say what?! They even told me they wished there was an interview process. I just don’t understand that – how can you be sure that someone is an adequate educator without ever meeting them? Bizarre, bizarre…. 

With my limited time left here, I have been trying to overload on everything français, from reading Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets in French to watching How I Met Your Mother in French to pushing myself into random conversations with teachers, workers at the school, shop owners and servers at the restaurant, I realize that I have limited time to continue to practice the language in a native place. Plus, it helps that wherever I go, random strangers on the street will always flash me a smile and dit a little “bonjour!” That’s small town France for you!**

Another sunset view from the Apt apt. (yes, my Apt apartment)

I even pushed myself to do something that any foreign language speaker knows is hard and nerve-racking task: talk on the phone in French. I know what you are thinking, I speak French… so why can’t I do it on the phone?! Many factors affect this (not being able to see the person, body language, bad phone connection leaving voices to be mumbled and incomprehensible, etc),  but it is one of the hardest skills to master in my opinion. For shutting down all of my accounts, it was necessary for me to speak to the customer service of each one of my providers, to get information on how to go about doing this. Unfortunately, all these companies in France have their employees sign contracts where they cannot speak in English to help customers - even when they are having trouble understanding and you might be able to help them better in another language. Only French conversations can be had. Knowing this in advance, I prepared myself and hoped that this conversation would go as smoothly as one I would have with someone at a store. My phone call with SFR (my internet company) was as seamless as could be – she could understand me, and I could understand her. It was actually quite a lovely conversation. After that, with my spirits lifted, I decided to call Virgin (my phone company). This conversation was a little bumpier, but still a lot better than how it would have been when I first arrived! Either way, getting over that feeling of being timid is hard for me – in English and even more in a foreign language! I am more than proud of what I have accomplished and continue to accomplish as I grow within this language.

I took advantage of this weekend being my last true weekend “at home” in Apt. On Friday, I spent the day laying out and cleaning. I did venture out of the apartment to get some new movies and stop to get some kebab. After a nice conversation with the owner, I got out my money to pay for my meal and he told me “non, non, mademoiselle, c’est mon cadeau pour toi!”*** Though I felt weird about this, he insisted, reminding me of the little town atmosphere this place has and how a little conversation can go a long way. Then, like a true American, I went to the theater and watched Monuments Men. What a great film, filled with patriotism and a little bit of Matt Damon speaking French (albeit a little rough pronunciation, but still)! I couldn’t help but cry for my homeland a bit…

It's okay, Matt - sometimes I screw up French too!

Saturday, I went to the market for one of the last times. I ran into many students, and one of the teachers I work with, Marc. Again, these are only things that can happen in such a small town as this – I can never go anywhere without seeing a teacher or students from the lycée. Also, I heard A LOT of other Anglophones around, lots of Brits and Americans. Tourist season must be starting in Provence! With all the things I bought, I might have had a near anxiety attack and quickly did a test-pack of everything I have here… needless to say I haven’t done my April-May travels and with two checked bags, I am still overweight…. guess I will be shipping some things home! Then, I enjoyed a nice light dinner and watched A Good Year, filmed right here in the Luberon in Provence. I recognized many of the panoramic views of the little, hillside villages that are on my stomping grounds, including Gordes, Bonnieux, and Lacoste. But what was surprising was at the very end, while the credits rolled, they listed a special thanks to the people living in all of the towns that were filmed in the movie. I was more than surprised to see little, unexceptional Apt on the list! Now I will have to rewatch that movie a few more times and try to pinpoint which scene/s where filmed here in my French home.

And Marion Cotillard is in it - a fav French actress. Need I say more?

Sunday, one of my private lesson clients Laure and her husband Julien took me to the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Though I had visited this wonderful town before, through their knowledge and guidance, I saw it through completely different eyes. I learned so much about la Venise Provencal****, walking through antique shop after antique shop, and vendor after vendor in the marché. Before going today, I was not sure whether we would speak in English or in French together, as all of our communication up until now has been in English. It was a welcomed change to be expected to speak in French, even when at times I had difficulty in expressing my ideas, they would help me with giving me a new expression or words to use. Even so, these moments didn’t happen too frequently, meaning that my time from 9am-5pm was nearly entirely spoken in French. I know that many of my readers might be saying “Becca, you live in France – isn’t this something you do everyday?” The simple answer: no. Since I am required to speak English with students at work, and with the professors when in front of students, I mostly have found that I go some days speaking English more than French. Although I have had several opportunities to speak through meals and other gatherings with my teachers, this was a nice change as it was different people with different accents, for quite a long period of time. Their generosity and kindness was something that I hadn’t expected, et je ne l’oublierai jamais – I will never forget it!

Antiques everywhere!

We saw many pairs of these lions statues flanked at the doorways of the antiquaires. They explained to me that in ancient times these were used as guardians at the doors almost, portraying the fierceness of the nobility/people that lived inside of the buildings.

La Sorgue!

Laure and I in front of the many water wheels, or roules, that are scattered throughout Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

The emblem of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with its latin motto which when translated means the city holds strong against enemies.

Notre Dame des Anges - the church. We peeked in so I could get a look, even though there was a service happening, what a beautiful interior!

More antiquing along the Sorgue - anyone want a cup of tea on the dining set in the water on the right there?

La Sorgue est partout!

They took me to a lovely Chinese restaurant, which is honestly something I have been craving for a long time, as the one in Apt is SUPER expensive (and kinda sketchy looking) so I haven’t tried it. So when they said they felt bad because they didn’t take me to somewhere typically French, I said it is no problem. After, we went to their beautiful home and met their dog Uta, further making this day more amazing, as I got to have play time with un chien! After, they took me to a park where the Sorgue river splits into two parts, a well-known place called le Partage des Eaux. After, we headed up a windy, skinny road deep in the countryside and visited the village of Saumane-de-Vaucluse. Known for a chateau that is privately owned at the top of the village, it boasts magnificent views over the countryside while keeping its quaint, white-washed stone houses stacked in solemnity on the hillside. I had never heard of this village before, and after today I can say I discovered a new coin de Provence.

I can't tell you how many ducks I saw today, and all in twos! I guess that is the custom: as it is almost time for the mama ducks to give birth, the daddy ducks stay with them to help with the ducklings. It's bizarre I didn't manage to get both in the picture....

Le Partage des Eaux

Walking up to the village was beautiful, seeing the layered white rock flanking the hillside. Laure and Julien explained to me that some people have carved their houses into this type of rock, their house actually a part of the hillside. I didn't really believe them... until we saw one on the drive back to Apt. Unfortunately, didn't get a picture of that.

Best shot I could get of the privately-owned chateau

Saumane-de-Vaucluse

After such a wonderful day, it was hard for me to say goodbye and to adequately thank them for how much today meant to me. I think it is hard for people to realize how lonely it can be to come to a foreign country, knowing no one, not having a car, and to try and be able to make connections with people and do things. Today, I felt like I was somewhat part of French everyday life, and it will be a day that I will remember forever.

 

Now, onto another 3 weeks of teaching!

*Translation: to find a job. Woof.

**Recall: In a previous post of when I first arrived, I talked about how I feel like Belle from Beauty and the Beast with everyone shouting “Bonjour” at me as I walk through town. That welcoming feeling has not gone away, and will be one of the things I miss most when returning home to the states.

***Translation: No no miss, this is my gift to you! As you can imagine, I was torn between feeling grateful and wondering if he had put something in my food….

****They call this the Venice of Provence because the river Sorgue that runs through the town forms many canals in the alleyways between the buildings.

A day of rest? Never.

Sundays in southern France are extremely different than Sundays in America. Most restaurants and stores are closed - the day is reserved as a true day of rest, to spend time with family and friends or go to church if you may be religious (though many are not in this part of France, as I have noticed).

Today, I was invited to spend the day with my coordinating teacher Cathy and her family. She mentioned that a few friends might be coming the other day but wasn't sure. As we hadn't spoken in a few days, I wasn't going to be surprised if she forgot about inviting me. But sure enough, at 10:30am, I receive a text saying she was on her way to pick me up and a note saying to bring tennis shoes, as we will probably be going for a walk in the afternoon. This should have been my first clue as to the day's plans.

When she came to pick me up at the school, she called and told me to meet her across the street as she couldn't get through. I was confused by this, until I reached the front parking lot and noticed the whole lot was taken up by people selling their old stuff. Like a garage sale but in someone else's lot. When she asked me what was going on, I tried my best to explain in French the scene. She then gave me a new word to describe it: vide-grenier - literally, emptying everything out of your attic. If they are items of actual value (read: antiques), it is known as marché brocante (translation: flea market) - but in this case, it definitely was a vide-grenier.

We proceeded to drive to Cathy's house which is in a village that is about a 10 minute drive away from Apt, called Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, a littler, more typical provencal town. I was immediately greeted by the rest of her family, her two daughters Eloise and Amandine, and her husband Marc who is another one of the English teachers I will be working with here at the lycée. Then, with the dog Fluffy in tow, we proceeded to do a quick hike of the village and the historical buildings it posesses. Now, when I say quick, I was later told that that same hike is normally done in an hour and a half. We completed it in a half hour.

As I didn't bring my nice camera with me (I wasn't sure of the day's plans), here is what I managed to capture of the beautiful hike throughout the hills of the Luberon through the view of my camera phone.

View of the rolling hills of the Luberon. Yup, this is where I live!

L'eglise de Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, the church of the village.

Le moulin, or windmill, which dates back to the 12 century. Actually there are 4 of these on site but this one is in the best condition.

The walking was a little rough, I almost slipped several times.

La chapelle de Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, which also dates back to the 12th century. You can only reach it by foot, and again it is a little slippery to make it all the way to the top.

Beautiful view of Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt from the pathway leading to the chapel.

Another view of the pathway and town (and that's Eloise on the right!)

After that light hike, we returned back to the house to meet Cathy's friend, Patrick, and his wife. Patrick is also and English teacher and him and his wife live in Nice. We all sat down and had a typical French Sunday lunch with 4 courses. First, vegetable salad with a chilled white cheese sauce*. Second, and main course, poulet et poivrons rouges, which was chicken with green and red peppers served over rice. Third, the cheese plate, which included three goat cheeses and even the American delicacy "Philidelphia" (aka: cream cheese)**. Fourth, and finally, dessert which was an almond and raisin tart AND les flambottes (spelling?), which resembled whipped cream mixed with crème anglaise. Yes, there were two desserts, and of course bread and red wine filled for every course. As I haven't eaten much since I've gotten here, I ate about two day's worth in that one sitting. It was absolutely marvelous.

After lunch, we went on a more leisurely stroll through the hills of the Luberon. It was just so nice to spend such a beautiful day with such kind people. Although the entire day French was spoken between everyone (with a word or two in English every once in awhile), I had little trouble comprehending. When they asked me at lunch why I've come here this year, what do I hope to accomplish, I said without a doubt to improve my French. I really think that they took that to heart, as I learned so much already today, and it sounds like they will continue to help me in my quest. They already agreed that when we are at school in front of students, we will speak in English. But at any other time, French will be used so I can continue to practice. The pure generosity and kindness I have been greeted with just being here for five days makes me realize what an amazing experience this already is.

After talking for a bit more, and saying goodbyes and mercis, complete with me exchanging la bise (as they said "tu es française maintenant!" translation: you are french now, it was almost an expression saying ‘you are one of us!’), I left with Patrick and his wife, as they could drop me off on their way back to Nice. As they dropped me at the school, they said that if I ever want to go that part of the coast, I would surely have a "stopover" with them. Again, so kind after knowing me for such short a time.

I guess you could say I checked off one of the things from my bucket list already today: "hiked around the hills of the Luberon with no itinerary in mind." Although my incredibly sore legs would not agree that this was truly a "day of rest", I think I can truly say that it was a day well spent.

*I know what you all are thinking: yes, I had the cheese sauce. It looked like and tasted sour cream, so that was fine.

**Again, I see your confused faces out there: yes, I partook in the cheese plate. Again, since I was their main guest they kept serving me first, and I didn't want to be rude. However, one of those goat cheeses... really scared me... I had to just swallow it hole with a sip of wine. Cheers!

Market Day

Think of the quote I said in my last post from the man that worked at the bank, with his opinion that "Apt is dead". Now take that image in your mind and completely reverse it, and that is market day here in this quaint, provençal town.

I went to bed early last night, knowing it is good to get up early to go the markets in whatever town you may be visiting in Provence, as they tend to get busy and picked over by the end of the market time. I was greeted this morning with the natural alarm of the Luberon countryside - a rooster crowing to signal the sunrise. I was up and out of the apartment by 9:30.

Now, Apt is known for its Saturday market so when I looked up the time and place online (8h-13h, place de la bouquerie), I figured it probably wasn't just in that square in town but thought I would have to go searching for it a bit. I couldn't have been more wrong. Immediately, once I got to the gate of the school, the school parking lot was completely full. No, the cars weren't of parents or faculty members picking up children*, they were all overflow parking, with the outlined spaces on the asphalt clearly being just a suggestion. I looked across to the center of town and immediately, down every narrow street and square you could see were vendors selling their trade. And people. Lots of people.

I have been to many provençal markets before, as when I studied in Aix, there were several there and with each small town we visited (gordes, lourmarin, st tropez, moustier ste marie, etc), we explored their markets. However, this may be the most extensive market I have ever seen. With every winding turn in the incredibly narrow streets in this labyrinth of a village, you continued to find more and more people selling their craft. Just when you expected it to be done, you turned another corner and there was a gruff, rotund man sharpening knives or a gray haired main selling wooden toys to a little boy.

The atmosphere of the market in Apt in one word... alive. Without a doubt. The vendors are yelling wildly as each passerby examines their goods, hoping to make some type of sale. Old friends meet and exchange la bise and catch up while buying their fresh produce and spices. However, everyone is a new friend at the market and you are treated as part of the family as you go about your weekly shopping. The smell of olives, herbes de provence, and lavender permeates the air. The faint strains of an accordion, the upbeat strums of an acoustic guitar and the energetic bleats of a harmonica all set the soundtrack for this chaotic yet completely organized affair. You can find just about anything with this extensive outdoor mall from fresh fruits and vegetables, to old books and DVDs, to clothes and jewelry, to linens and home goods. The possibilities are endless, and so are the crowds of people.

You will find that I didn't get many pictures of this amazing experience I am having trouble putting into words and that is because of one thing: too many people. I had heard that this market could get pretty busy, especially during the summer and when the weather is nice. I had underestimated this warning and found that I was little stuck shoulder to shoulder in the small passageways that are the streets of Apt. Every time I got a little space, I attempted to capture the pure, simple beauty of le marché d'Apt. 

Les lavandes

Les cigales, or cicadas, are celebrated here in the South of France. Their nightly sounds signal the beginning of a summer, a good omen you could say.

One of the many fresh produce vendors

Spice vendor

Here is one of the street musicians I was talking about

Olives (and therefore olive oil, olive tapenade, etc) are one of the main produce items grown in Provence.

Knowing my incredible hatred for cheese, I stayed away from this table. But had to get a picture!

I was anticipating spending just over an hour at the market today, as I just needed a few things and was going really to enjoy the experience of the market. I have never been one to buy a lot at one. I ended up leaving after almost three hours, with lunch, a new basket, some fresh produce, a towel for the apartment and mason jar. All for under 30 euros. That's the other thing great about the markets, you can get a lot of stuff, at a very little price.

After such a wonderful time today, I am definitely returning to the Saturday market here as often as I can.** As the weather cools down, I have heard that it gets less busy, which may be better get some wonderful pictures for all of you. Tonight, I am beginning to check off one of the items on my Europe bucket list - I am starting to read Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone in French. It was left here by a past assistant and it sounds like a fun read right now. After seeing so many interesting books at the market today, I definitely think I will be reading a lot more than just the one I put on the list, but it was a way for me to start. And fyi, Hogwarts in French is Poudlard - definitely doesn't have the same ring to it.