Joyeux Noël

Here we are finally - Christmas vacation! Well not really there yet, I still have one full day of teaching tomorrow, but I won't have time to write before I start my crazy journey home.
The past few days have been quite solitary. With only two classes Monday and two today, I have a lot of free time on my own. This is something I wouldn't normally mind, but as Amy left last week to go back to England for the holidays, I couldn't help but feel a little alone here in Apt. However, I had much to keep myself busy with: cleaning, laundry, last minute Christmas shopping, reading and watching movies. And the thought that Friday evening I will be back with my family at home has been pushing me through these last days.

I decided to do a nice thing for all my teachers that I work with and wrote Christmas cards to them (in French) with Lindt truffles attached. I just couldn't help myself to get into the spirit of the season, and I think that they really appreciated them.

Christmas cheer!

Plus, I also received a very nice card in return from one of the teachers. It is this simple gesture that warms my heart this time of year. Not only that but they had been planning on trying to have a Christmas get-together with all the English teachers based on my schedule, but unfortunately everyone is extremely busy this time of year so they promised to have a dinner and invite me in January. I was touched knowing that they tried either way, and am excited to be able to even have the opportunity to see and speak with them outside of school.

She even drew a snowman on the envelope!

Hectic doesn't even begin to describe tomorrow and Friday. Tomorrow I will teach six classes and have a two hour lunch, which I must run back to my apartment and grab my bags and make sure everything is in order before I leave.* Then, a quick bus to Avignon to stay at Liz's and after a short night's sleep, we are taking a 5am TGV to Paris. With navigation of the metro to Charles de Gaulle, I have a flight from Paris-Montreal, then Montreal-Chicago. Even with the three hour drive home from there, I know I won't care as I will be with family! I cannot even begin to describe the excitement I have to be home and to see family and friends. I am so happy and grateful for the amazing opportunity to be living in France for this year, but there is nothing like being home for the holidays. So, until January when I return to France, I am saying au revoir to this blog - I am going to profitez-bien this time with those I love most. So to you and yours, joyeux noël et bonne année!

One last holiday window mural

*I say grab my bags because I have only 20 minutes to catch the bus to Avignon after class, which doesn't leave me enough time to go back and fetch them. So instead, I am relying on the women at la loge, whom I haven't asked yet, to let me leave them there for my afternoon classes. Here's hoping that I can!

Vale, España (aka: Spain, don’t kick me when I’m down!)

I am excited to be writing this post from the comfort of my own room in Apt. Although I love to travel and explore new places, there is something about home that is inherently relaxing and after the weekend I have had, I cannot express how grateful I am to have a steady place to come back to here in Europe.

My journey began early Friday morning, with catching the 6am bus to the Avignon TGV station. From there, I took a 3 hour TGV to Paris. Although it was cold in Provence, on the way to Paris, we passed through the northern departements of France which were covered in snow, with more big chunks being blown around as we passed. Seeing the Southerners on this train was funny, as they were so excited to see this change of season and were all continually taking pictures on their smartphones the entire ride. 

This TGV arrived 30 minutes late into Gare de Lyon, making my 1.5 hour connection to Gare Montparnasse even shorter. I hastily bought a ticket to the metro, and having already mapped out my plan to get there, arrived in the station with 30 minutes to spare. The next TGV was a 6 hour journey that was supposed to end in Irun, a small town just across the border into Spain. However, when we reached the stop before Irun, an announcement was made: we would be stopped there for an undeterminable amount of time due to a blockage on the line. In my train car, you heard just about every language represented in their disgust at this news: “Putain!” “Shiza!” “Joder!” “Shit!”

As I only had a 30 minute connection with the original time this train was getting in, I knew there was little hope for me to arrive in Irun, let alone Burgos, that night. I talked with some young German students who were next to me in the same predicament – we were all trying to find a way to make that train. After trying to find the conductor to ask about this several times, I ran into someone saying that they were setting up something special for the people who were on my train going to Portugal. Then, in an instant, the conductor appeared and said “Tu vas à Portugal?” As I was definitely not going there, I was confused but just showed him my ticket. He motioned me and a group of us to follow him. At this point, I had no idea what was going on or where I was going, but blindly following seemed better than staying on the train. 

As we were all standing there, conversing about our options in a mix of French, English and Spanish, I slowly realized that we all had some type of understanding between us. There is something to be said about the universal language of the panicked and stranded travelers. Soon after, a group of taxis pulled up – the train station had called taxis to take us across the border to Irun. Squished in a car with 3 other Portuguese men, hoping and praying that I would make this train, I watched as there was one minute until the train left and we weren’t even at the station yet. One of the men in the car asked why I was so worried, and when I explained to him that I don’t speak Spanish, he said “pourquoi tu es en Espagne?!”* After explaining a little bit about why I am in Europe and that I was visiting a friend studying in Spain, he told me not to worry, because they don’t even speak Spanish there, they speak Basque. It was interesting to hear about the different dialects that exist in Spain and the different opinions and controversy about their usage. 

When we arrived at the station at the minute the train was supposed to leave, I was grateful that the taxi driver just told us to run from the car – the taxi was on the train station. Good thing, because that was a 90 euro ride! We made it just in time… except the train waited on the platform for another half hour to ensure the passengers from the other taxis would arrive as well. As we all reunited on the train, we shared our relief with one another and wished each other continued safe travels with fewer complications. Again, the sense of camaraderie was quite comforting, as I was making this journey on my own. 

I finally arrived in Burgos at 10:15pm, only a few minutes after I was supposed to arrive originally. I was greeted by Katie and Andrea at the station and they brought me back into town to my hostel. The owner of the hostel had gratefully stayed an hour and a half past check out time for me, and since I was one of the only guests, I got a two bed room with a private bathroom instead of the single room I paid for. Score! Even after my long day of travel, I wanted to see a bit of the city and grab some food. So they showed me some of the city center that night: Burgos cathedral all lit up, the Arc Santa Maria, etc. And we went to Moritos, which became increasingly clear was the best restaurant in town. As we waited for a table, we enjoyed my first Spanish sangria, and I must say they are AMAZING!** Then we had huge chicken sandwiches, which might not sound very Spanish, but for someone that has not had a lot of meat since I have been to Europe, the sandwich was absolutely delicious and just what I needed. I slept very well on my double bed to myself and a stomach full of goodness. 

Besties with Sangria!

Saturday, we woke up and were determined to see the sights. The weather, although, didn’t agree with us. It was pretty cold and continued to spit rain at us so although I got to see the cathedral during the day, we did not get to walk to the university where Katie studies and decided to duck into stores and do some shopping. Soon after, we went for an early lunch of vino y tapas at Pecadito’s, another popular restaurant in town. This was a very traditional Spanish meal where I tried many different small plates of Spanish dishes, including tortilla, croquetas, and the Burgos specialty morcilla. And of course, had to wash it down with a glass of rosé wine. 

The second most beautiful cathedral I've ever seen. (if you're wondering, Notre Dame is always boss)

Tapas!

After lunch, we went for another glass of sangria at Morito’s. I don’t know what it is but that blend of red wine, apples, oranges and lemons was just too delicious to resist.

Seriously, SO GOOD!

After, it was still too cold and rainy to walk around very much, so we went back to Katie’s host family’s house and watched Pitch Perfect in her room. I know this sounds like an odd thing to do in Spain, but as I had been missing this movie, and spending time with a best friend, it was so nice to just relax in a warm place that afternoon while quoting and singing one of our favorite movies together. Plus, I got to meet her host mom and brother, both of whom are very nice and were very welcoming to me. 

Later on, we got ready for a night out on the town. As Katie had warned me the week before, I knew that it was going to be a long night out, as Spaniards stay out until 7am on a Saturday night/Sunday morning. And as I had one real night in Spain, I of course had to be prepared to live as the Spanish do! The night started with kebabs (which I had never had before and were tasty!), a sangria at Moritos and then calimuchos at Peregrino. Calimuchos is a drink that I have heard about from many of my friends that have studied in Spain: it is half red wine, half Coke. I thought this would be disgusting but surprisingly found it quite tasty! We spent the rest of the night meeting up with Katie’s other friends from the program and dancing the night away. Although the night ended on a sour note***, I was more than happy that Katie’s host brother said I could come back and stay at their house instead of going back to my hostel. I was thankful to be able to spend the night with my friend after such a weird end to my day, and I was happily asleep by 8am (like true Spaniards do).

Waking at noon, we set off in search of a store to buy me a new coat. We were sad to discover that Spain is like France: everything was closed. So instead, I borrowed one of Katie’s jackets and we set off to take pictures by the cathedral. After, we headed to Yaya’s house to bake a classic American apple crumble pie, as her host mom wanted to know how to make them. Though when we started making it, she said that she already knew how to make that kind of pie. Oh well, it was wonderful to meet another Spanish woman, and she spoke English very well! She said she felt so awful about my jacket that she would find me an old one that she wasn’t wearing anymore for me to have. I thought that this was just a nice sentiment but when she came through the door with a lined bomber jacket, I was nearly in tears. She mis-understood my reaction and said “Oh if you don’t like it, that is fine, you can buy another one when you get to France!” I of course thanked her profusely, for giving me something to wear in the cold winter conditions, and am still extremely grateful for this act of kindness. There are some great people in Spain!

Apple crumble deliciousness!

Some lovely ladies!

Then we went on a chilly evening walk and Katie, Andrea and Yaya showed me the university where they study at, Universidad de Burgos. After a bone chilling stroll, we ducked in to Morito’s one last time so I could try some patatas bravas, which were French fries with a type of red hot sauce and aioli topping. Yum! And finally, something every tourist must do in Burgos, we climbed to the top of the Castillo (which there is barely anything left of) and looked out over the city. It was a beautiful moment of tranquility after such a crazy weekend and we all sat there admiring the view.

Burgos at night

After, we said our goodbyes and Katie and I headed back to the hostel for quick nap. As all the 8am bus tickets to Madrid airport were sold out, it meant that I had to wake up at 3am to catch the 4am bus to the airport. After saying goodbye to Katie at the bus station, I settled in and slept until we reached the airport. I checked in and looked at the clock: it was 7am. My flight didn’t leave until 2:40pm. I spent the 7 hours of free time watching Project Free TV on my phone and reading. Finally, the plane boarded, took off and landed on time. I even slept on the plane!****

Once arriving in Marseille and transferring to the train station, I bought tickets to a train that said it was delayed 30 minutes. This was fine, as my bus back to Apt wouldn’t leave for another 1.5 hours after I arrived in Avignon. However, while sitting on the train, they came on the loud speaker and said that the train would be delayed an additional hour. Sure I was able to find a train that could get me there sooner, I waited another 30 minutes in line for them to tell me the next train was scheduled to get in later. As I walked back to my original train, they came over the loud speaker and said the train would now be delayed 3 hours. That wouldn’t do, so I went back to the line again to get the next available train. Which got into Avignon at 8:05. When did the last bus to Apt leave, you may ask? At 8:00pm.

So, as I was stuck in Avignon for the night, I texted my friend and fellow assistant Liz and she and her roommates Chase and Maria let me stay at their place. I cannot express how thankful I was that I had somewhere to stay for the night, and also got to catch up with some great people. I will be going back to their place this weekend to see a bit of Avignon, shop and make some pumpkin pie! But in any case, I checked the bus schedule when I was there and soon realized that there was no way I was going to be able to make my first class the next day. I emailed my teacher and coordinator and offered to do an extra hour at a different time, and as this situation has yet to be resolved, I still don’t know what is going to happen with it.

Tuesday morning, I took the bus back into Apt and walking back through town gave me this indescribably uplifting feeling. I never thought Apt would make me feel that way, as so many people call it a “dead city”. After such a long, eventful, complicated, and fun weekend, I could not be happier to be back in my French home, no matter how small and run-down it may be.

*Translation: Why are you in Spain?!

**So amazing that we returned two more times on Saturday for two more glasses. That’s right: 3 times within a 24 hour period. It’s just that good, guys!

***What is this sour note? WELL, my watch AND my winter jacket got stolen. To be fair, the watch might have just fallen off, but due to the below freezing temperatures outside, I was pretty upset about the jacket. And, oh yeah, a Spanish mob/mafia boss was trying to give me money for my coat. Only in Spain….

****For people who are aware of my flight anxiety, you know that this is a great triumph!

Le mal du pays....

Tonight is the last official night of vacation, as our contract says we begin teaching again tomorrow. However, as I work every other Monday, I get one more day of relaxation and planning, which will probably be consumed running errands and cleaning. Maybe a stop by Pizz'burger to catch up on some American TV... who knows.

Thursday, my first full day back at home, I mostly took care of odds and ends - grocery shopping, laundry, blogging, etc. I was trying to ignore the fact that it was Halloween and I was in a country that does not seem to acknowledge it. However, when I was at the grocery store, I did see a small Halloween section, or what had been one. All of the costumes and holiday-related items had been bought out! Guess the French might celebrate it more than I thought. However, I still didn't see anyone roaming around in costumes and with no Hocus Pocus to watch, I was feeling a little deprived. Later that night, Amy decided to add a little Halloween flair to the apartment to celebrate. Have to admit it made me laugh, convincing me to eat a Reese's Pumpkin* and watch Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban and enjoy the best of my French Halloween.

Amy's Halloween ghosts. Aren't they scary?!

On Friday, we ventured to Avignon. Amy's boyfriend was in town this weekend, and they were planning on going to visit there anyway, but we are also looking into getting new phone coverage and the store we needed to go to happened to be there. One thing that I had thought about in advance but thought it would not be a problem: it was November 1st. As in, jour de la toussaint - the reason we had a two week vacation was for this holiday. So as you can imagine, we reached Avignon and the store was closed. After using free wifi and wandering in some shops for a few hours, I came back to Apt empty handed. Amy and I are already planning a trip for next Friday to get this sorted, and maybe a trip to Ikea is in store as well.

Saturday is always the same, spending hours meandering through the market. Not like I mind it - I find it to be comforting constant in my life here. I am starting to recognize the vendors, and some are starting to recognize me as well. It makes this place feel a little more like home. 

Had been dying to try the pizza from a specific vendor who is always packed and sells out by 10:30am (Note: there is a bite taken out already... I couldn't wait until after the picture.)

Macaroon type of day.

However, the rest of Saturday was not a good day. Ever since I have been back to Apt, I guess you can say that I have been extremely homesick.** This stemming from my wish to be back home for State Finals on Saturday to see my students perform as well as many of my travel plans seeming to fall apart beneath my eyes. And also, some unexpected news from home didn't help either. I couldn't help but feel how incredibly alone I feel here. At the beginning, I liked that feeling - it made me feel independent and strong. But now, I just feel a bit lost.

My parents are seriously the best in the world. Why, you may ask? They knew how sad I was and skyped me into all three performances for each of the groups that I instructed/choreographed for this year. Although I was up very late staring at a computer screen, I went to sleep with a smile, the first time that's happened in awhile.

NOTE: Not saying that I don't feel absolutely blessed to be here, because I do. I just feel like it is equally important to write about the harder times, as it makes the amazing times here that much more important.

*Thanks Mom!!!
**Again, probably a huge understatement.

Toute seule en Provence

Toute seule is one of those French phrases that can have many different meanings, depending on who it is coming from and what context it is being used in. In the simplest of translations, it means alone. But it can also have the connotation of a borderline exaggeration, meaning completely alone; to find out if one is in a relationship, it could mean single; and said with the right intonation, it can mean lonely.

I have gotten that question numerous times with the various meanings listed above this past week: “Tu es toute seule?” And I can never quite decide how to answer it. Because although, yes, I have been the only one living in this apartment this past week, I don’t ever feel like I have been truly alone. The Provencal people here have a way of making you feel welcome, whether they are inviting you over to spend Sunday lunch with their family or just offering a friendly “bonjour!” as you are walking down the street. I am not joking about the bonjour thing; it happens with nearly every person I pass on the street. I feel like I am Belle in the fictitious village she lived in Beauty and the Beast, with people just continuing to shout it everywhere.

Really though, this is my life!

For the past two days in Provence, I truly have been toute seule and have been living life just like that. Yesterday, I had what I dubbed a lazy lundi – I attempted to stay in and clean, paint my nails and continue reading. I did have to go out to get food at the cantine and to recharge my internet (which I found out is not unlimited…. whoops). 

Today, I went out on a mission. A few days ago, on looking through my information for my bank account, I realized they had recorded the wrong address on my statement. I also wanted to put money into my account so I could get set up a direct pay contract for internet, so I figured I would have to make an appointment of some sort to do this. I walked in and explained my problem to the woman at the desk and that I wanted to put money in my account. She did it all for me in less than 5 minutes. Chouette! AND she complimented me on how well I spoke French, totally voluntarily. Guess I am improving!

Then I was off to SFR to change my plan with them. From what I had read, I would have to sign up for a 12 month contract, except that I am only going to be here for 9 months. I explained my predicament to the woman working, and she said that she found that I could still set up a monthly plan with them (which includes less money, more usage and is directly taken from my bank account) without a contract. SCORE! And on my walk back to the apartment, whilst saying a passing-by bonjour to the cafeteria cooks (I am serious about this bonjour thing), I got to talking with one of the chefs and he wants me to tutor his son in English! Such an awesome opportunity, hope I’ll get the chance to do it! I seriously felt so accomplished today that I decided to tackle a few other French things I had been avoiding… like….how to do laundry. (cue scary music here)

After reading the paper directions, looking up clearer directions online, and navigating the washer, I successfully did a load of darks! And my clothes aren’t ruined! 

Took me awhile to figure out which setting to use...

Yes, a popular laundry detergent in France sounds a heck of a lot like the town I live in. Don't be fooled, not produced here.

One of the four page confusing directions, so....

How-to blogs save me again!

How to dry clothes in France: use hanging rack, line dry outside of window (not shown), or hang off every possible surface in the room.

Another thing that I have been trying to avoid, how to use the heating plate and to make my own dinner, I accomplished today as well! I made a dinner for myself of beef ravioli with tomato sauce* along with a fresh baguette that I picked up in town today.

The ravioli was actually kind of disgusting, definitely not the same as the US!

Tomorrow brings another day of getting organized. Today, I received my first rent facture, or bill, for next month. So, it will be time to go to le service intendance to take care of that, as well as give them my relevé d’identité bancaire** and ask about how I may be able to get an advance on my first salary. Oh, the amount of administrative work to get this all set up… I will be happy when it is all organized. And tomorrow also brings the arrival of my roommate and other English assistant, Amy! Will be happy to finally share the apartment and my time here with someone else, plus it will be nice to not be “toute seule” anymore. But for tonight, I will enjoy my last night here to myself – reading and watching Friends in French. C’est la vie, la vie d’une assistante.

*I know what you’re thinking Mom, but it is really one of the only things I can make with what I have available. 

**From what I understand about this document, it facilitates setting up direct deposits from employers or payments to companies for rent and such. I don’t know what the translation of it would be in America, just another completely necessary French document. Like the other 100 I need. 

***Translation: That’s life, the life of an assistant.